Wow! I just was searching for some home furnishings and found a great site.
They not only offer discount prices, but they have some big name, quality brands like Wesley Allen, American Drew, Lane Furniture and Collezione Europa to name a few. The website is pleasing to look at and easy to navigate to find what you are looking for fast. The selection is huge! You can find furniture for all areas of your house except the outside. Check out their links below:
Bedroom Furniture
Lane Furniture
Wesley Allen
On a personal score, I am a big customer of the online shopping mall for all sorts of things. Fortunately, this ease of buying has not resulted in the need to seek credit counseling. Unfortunately what it has resulted in is several instances of fraud on my credit cards and one case of large scale identity theft. That was a major hassle! I started receiving credit cards in the mail with a large purchase already on them. What the thieves were doing is opening up accounts online under my name and making one large purchase and having it shipped to an alternate address. As far as credit goes, I don't think these fraud activities have impacted my personal score, but I am not sure. I had to go Equifax and the other two credit reporting agencies and place a seven year fraud block on my accounts. I would recommend that everyone do this because it makes in harder to get ripped off. By the way, you can now get a free credit report online. Just do a search on that term to find the source. Are these minor setbacks going to keep me out of the online shopping mall? No way! The bargain discount shopping and price comparison shopping are too good to pass up.
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
A Quick and Easy Guide to Providing Plants with Proper Light
Most so called “house plants” have low light requirements and can generally be grown indoors without additional lighting. Where things get a little more complicated is when vegetable and fruit producing plants are added to the indoor garden, or even some outdoor areas. These plants require more light for optimal growth and production. It is important to be able to estimate the amount of light needed for growing each type of plant and the lighting options available for replacing or supplementing natural sunlight for indoor or greenhouse gardening. The use of an inexpensive light meter and a general understanding of plant lighting terminology will help lead to successful garden light management.
A quick search on the internet for “indoor plant light requirements” will provide many sources and most of them will give the same or close to the same requirements. These requirements are not for general house plants, but for their light hungry cousins that are more commonly grown outside. Most charts, like the one below, give a recommended coverage for a particular watt light used as both an exclusive lighting source and when supplemented with some natural sunlight.
Light Size Estimates for Growing Fruits and Vegetables Indoors
Watts Coverage With Sunlight
250 3' x 3' 4' x 4'
400 4' x 4' 6' x 6'
600 5' x 5' 7' x 7'
1000 7' x 7' 11' x 11'
Given these general guidelines for the area that can be covered by a particular watt light, it is important to provide the proper type of light that plants need. There are three main types of lights available for growing plants. The three types are: metal halide, high pressure sodium and MH/HPS dual spectrum lights.
Metal halide and High Pressure Sodium Lights
Metal halide lights produce a strong output of blue spectrum light which will result in strong vegetative growth. These lights produce enough red spectrum light for plant production, but the amount of red spectrum light they produce is not optimal for flowering and fruiting. It is for this reason that many indoor growers switch from metal halide to high pressure sodium lights once plants enter the flowering and fruiting stage, because these lights produce high output in the red spectrum. Another option is to use both metal halide and high pressure sodium lights, but using dual spectrum lights may be more practical.
MH/HPS Dual Spectrum Lights
The third type of light available, MH/HPS dual spectrum lighting, combines the advantages of both the metal halide and high pressure sodium bulbs in one lighting system. This is an innovative system and will produce great results throughout all growth cycles. One disadvantage is that these lights can be expensive, but with prices coming down and the need to only purchase one set of bulbs rather than two, price may not be as big an issue as it once was. It could, however, be argued that using metal halide lighting and switching to high pressure sodium bulbs for the flowering and fruiting stage gives plants more of precisely the light they need during both the growth and flowering and fruiting stages. The following links may be helpful in locating high quality MH/HPS Dual Spectrum Lights:
http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/items.asp?Cc=DS
http://www.specialty-lights.com/5915.html
http://www.hydroempire.com/store/index.php/cPath/3_21
A Light Meter is a Good Gardening Investment
Charts like the one above are helpful for estimating light requirements for a given indoor space where artificial light is the exclusive light source for the garden. For outdoor gardens, greenhouses and indoor spaces where some natural light is available it is beneficial to have a light meter to more precisely measure light and make adjustments accordingly. Light meters are available starting at around $20 and can be used to pick good ornamental house plants for any given location in the house, as well as to estimate additional lighting needs for high light plants including most fruits and vegetables.
Some of these meters come with lighting suggestions for many popular plants to help identify the best light level. The following links will be helpful in comparing brands and prices:
http://www.hhydro.com/cgi-bin/hhydro/LIGHT_METER.html
http://www.planetnatural.com/cgi-bin/planetnatural/grow-light-meter
http://www.growlightsource.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=725
http://wardsci.com/product.asp?pn=IG0013396&sid=mercent&mr:referralID=b235845b-ed9f-48d3-b738-5ee8a2bf9462
http://www.lusterleaf.com/Environmental%20Monitoring/pages/1870.html
The choices available for indoor plant lighting can be daunting, but the following steps can help one to zero in on the best system for a particular application:
1. Use the chart above to estimate the total wattage of light for the size of garden space. Use the links provided in this article, or find others by doing an internet search on “grow light”, and compare prices based on the watts needed. Consider three options: a) Metal halide lights with fixtures and ballasts and high pressure sodium conversion bulbs of the same size to switch to for the flowering and fruiting stage. When using standard bulbs you can only match the same type of bulb to the same type of ballast. Make sure to buy what is called a conversion bulb. This is a special bulb that will operate on the opposite type of ballast and can be purchased in all three bulb types b) Split the wattage evenly between metal halide and high pressure sodium lights. c) MH/HPS dual spectrum lights.
2. Invest in an inexpensive light meter. Use it to check the light level of all gardens that do not receive full sun, including greenhouses, patios and other shaded areas. The meter will be particularly helpful in selecting indoor plants based on available light for various areas of the house and measuring light to adjust the artificial light provided to indoor gardens.
3. Any light bulb will loose brightness over time. Metal Halide lamps will lose about 25% of their lumen output after a year of continual use. High pressure sodium bulbs last about twice as long and dual spectrum lights are between the two. Each bulb type is generally replaced at one year, 18 months and two years respectively. Alternatively, they may be used longer if more light is added to the garden to make up for the lost lumen output. A light meter is invaluable in determining how light output from a system has changed over time and making adjustments or bulb replacements accordingly.
How Many Hours Daily Light are Optimal?
Botanists classify plants into three categories concerning their reaction to hours of light. Some plants are classified as “short day” plants and will not flower unless they receive less than 12 hours of light each day. Examples of these plants are Christmas cactus, chrysanthemums and poinsettias. Some vegetables including tomatoes, corn and cucumbers are classified as “day neutral” plants because they will flower regardless of the number of hours of light received each day. Most of these “day neutral” plants will however perform best if given a relatively long day of 18 or so hours of light. Many summer blooming flowers and garden vegetables are classified as “long day” plants. Lettuce, spinach and potatoes are in this category. These and other long day plants all bloom when the night cycles are short.
Some plants are not classified as strictly "short day", but will perform best with 12 to 14 hour days. Most lettuces, herbs, broccoli, cauliflower, snow peas, chard and other spring and fall crops fall into this category. For indoor gardens containing a mixture of plants it is best to use around 14 hours of light each day. This will be short enough for the above mentioned plants to do well and long enough to keep the “day neutral” and “long day” plants that prefer a longer day producing. If these light lovers can be grown separately, give them a full 18 hours of light each day for maximum results.
Understanding the Terms Full Sun, Part Shade and Full Shade
Plants labeled as requiring full sun do not actually require direct sun all day long. Full sun means that the plant need at least six hours of direct sunlight each day and preferably including noon sun as part of this. Part shade plants require three to six hours of direct sun each day and preferably not direct sun during the intense mid day. Full shade plants do well on less than three hours of low intensity morning or late afternoon sun each day.
This information and an inexpensive light meter will help in making good lighting decisions to successfully manage light for both indoor and outdoor gardens.
A quick search on the internet for “indoor plant light requirements” will provide many sources and most of them will give the same or close to the same requirements. These requirements are not for general house plants, but for their light hungry cousins that are more commonly grown outside. Most charts, like the one below, give a recommended coverage for a particular watt light used as both an exclusive lighting source and when supplemented with some natural sunlight.
Light Size Estimates for Growing Fruits and Vegetables Indoors
Watts Coverage With Sunlight
250 3' x 3' 4' x 4'
400 4' x 4' 6' x 6'
600 5' x 5' 7' x 7'
1000 7' x 7' 11' x 11'
Given these general guidelines for the area that can be covered by a particular watt light, it is important to provide the proper type of light that plants need. There are three main types of lights available for growing plants. The three types are: metal halide, high pressure sodium and MH/HPS dual spectrum lights.
Metal halide and High Pressure Sodium Lights
Metal halide lights produce a strong output of blue spectrum light which will result in strong vegetative growth. These lights produce enough red spectrum light for plant production, but the amount of red spectrum light they produce is not optimal for flowering and fruiting. It is for this reason that many indoor growers switch from metal halide to high pressure sodium lights once plants enter the flowering and fruiting stage, because these lights produce high output in the red spectrum. Another option is to use both metal halide and high pressure sodium lights, but using dual spectrum lights may be more practical.
MH/HPS Dual Spectrum Lights
The third type of light available, MH/HPS dual spectrum lighting, combines the advantages of both the metal halide and high pressure sodium bulbs in one lighting system. This is an innovative system and will produce great results throughout all growth cycles. One disadvantage is that these lights can be expensive, but with prices coming down and the need to only purchase one set of bulbs rather than two, price may not be as big an issue as it once was. It could, however, be argued that using metal halide lighting and switching to high pressure sodium bulbs for the flowering and fruiting stage gives plants more of precisely the light they need during both the growth and flowering and fruiting stages. The following links may be helpful in locating high quality MH/HPS Dual Spectrum Lights:
http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/items.asp?Cc=DS
http://www.specialty-lights.com/5915.html
http://www.hydroempire.com/store/index.php/cPath/3_21
A Light Meter is a Good Gardening Investment
Charts like the one above are helpful for estimating light requirements for a given indoor space where artificial light is the exclusive light source for the garden. For outdoor gardens, greenhouses and indoor spaces where some natural light is available it is beneficial to have a light meter to more precisely measure light and make adjustments accordingly. Light meters are available starting at around $20 and can be used to pick good ornamental house plants for any given location in the house, as well as to estimate additional lighting needs for high light plants including most fruits and vegetables.
Some of these meters come with lighting suggestions for many popular plants to help identify the best light level. The following links will be helpful in comparing brands and prices:
http://www.hhydro.com/cgi-bin/hhydro/LIGHT_METER.html
http://www.planetnatural.com/cgi-bin/planetnatural/grow-light-meter
http://www.growlightsource.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=725
http://wardsci.com/product.asp?pn=IG0013396&sid=mercent&mr:referralID=b235845b-ed9f-48d3-b738-5ee8a2bf9462
http://www.lusterleaf.com/Environmental%20Monitoring/pages/1870.html
The choices available for indoor plant lighting can be daunting, but the following steps can help one to zero in on the best system for a particular application:
1. Use the chart above to estimate the total wattage of light for the size of garden space. Use the links provided in this article, or find others by doing an internet search on “grow light”, and compare prices based on the watts needed. Consider three options: a) Metal halide lights with fixtures and ballasts and high pressure sodium conversion bulbs of the same size to switch to for the flowering and fruiting stage. When using standard bulbs you can only match the same type of bulb to the same type of ballast. Make sure to buy what is called a conversion bulb. This is a special bulb that will operate on the opposite type of ballast and can be purchased in all three bulb types b) Split the wattage evenly between metal halide and high pressure sodium lights. c) MH/HPS dual spectrum lights.
2. Invest in an inexpensive light meter. Use it to check the light level of all gardens that do not receive full sun, including greenhouses, patios and other shaded areas. The meter will be particularly helpful in selecting indoor plants based on available light for various areas of the house and measuring light to adjust the artificial light provided to indoor gardens.
3. Any light bulb will loose brightness over time. Metal Halide lamps will lose about 25% of their lumen output after a year of continual use. High pressure sodium bulbs last about twice as long and dual spectrum lights are between the two. Each bulb type is generally replaced at one year, 18 months and two years respectively. Alternatively, they may be used longer if more light is added to the garden to make up for the lost lumen output. A light meter is invaluable in determining how light output from a system has changed over time and making adjustments or bulb replacements accordingly.
How Many Hours Daily Light are Optimal?
Botanists classify plants into three categories concerning their reaction to hours of light. Some plants are classified as “short day” plants and will not flower unless they receive less than 12 hours of light each day. Examples of these plants are Christmas cactus, chrysanthemums and poinsettias. Some vegetables including tomatoes, corn and cucumbers are classified as “day neutral” plants because they will flower regardless of the number of hours of light received each day. Most of these “day neutral” plants will however perform best if given a relatively long day of 18 or so hours of light. Many summer blooming flowers and garden vegetables are classified as “long day” plants. Lettuce, spinach and potatoes are in this category. These and other long day plants all bloom when the night cycles are short.
Some plants are not classified as strictly "short day", but will perform best with 12 to 14 hour days. Most lettuces, herbs, broccoli, cauliflower, snow peas, chard and other spring and fall crops fall into this category. For indoor gardens containing a mixture of plants it is best to use around 14 hours of light each day. This will be short enough for the above mentioned plants to do well and long enough to keep the “day neutral” and “long day” plants that prefer a longer day producing. If these light lovers can be grown separately, give them a full 18 hours of light each day for maximum results.
Understanding the Terms Full Sun, Part Shade and Full Shade
Plants labeled as requiring full sun do not actually require direct sun all day long. Full sun means that the plant need at least six hours of direct sunlight each day and preferably including noon sun as part of this. Part shade plants require three to six hours of direct sun each day and preferably not direct sun during the intense mid day. Full shade plants do well on less than three hours of low intensity morning or late afternoon sun each day.
This information and an inexpensive light meter will help in making good lighting decisions to successfully manage light for both indoor and outdoor gardens.
Saturday, November 24, 2007
Juicing!
I have tried many full price and discount vitamins and supplements, but recently I bought a vegetable and fruit juicer and I found that it far outshines even the best discount vitamins and minerals. Each morning I take two apples, two carrots, two celery sticks and a one inch chunk of ginger root and run them through the machine and drink up. No wired feeling like with some discount vitamins and supplements. No bad gas or after taste like with some discount vitamins. No worry of health risks like I sometimes have taking discount vitamins. The juice helps me to get my daily servings of both fruit and vegetable, helps me not to get sick and curbs my apatite. It is packed with natural discount vitamins and minerals. If I rinse the juicer parts right after juicing it is easy and fast. I don't do anything else with my diet and eat what I want for lunch and dinner, but 40 minutes before dinner I repeat this juicing process. I have been losing fat at a healthy rate and have great energy.
Proper Greenhouse Ventilation on a Budget
Proper ventilation is one of the most important factors for success with greenhouse gardening. Fortunately, there are methods to properly ventilate a greenhouse that are not too expensive. Ventilation involves the active or passive exchange of inside air for outside air to control temperature, remove moisture and replenish carbon dioxide. In most cases it is desirable to have an active (fan driven) ventilation system rather than to rely only on convective currents to move air within and in and out of the greenhouse. Mechanical ventilation is best achieved by having properly sized exhaust fans at one end of the greenhouse near the top and properly sized inlet lovers at the other end near mid level. This allows fresh air to enter and circulate around the plants and drives hot air out rather than allowing it to super heat the greenhouse by remaining near the ceiling. Fans can be purchased with variable speeds that are adjusted by complex thermostats, but there are other ways to achieve similar results using inexpensive variable speed fans that can be purchased at any local hardware store.
Calculating Fan and Lover Requirements
Fans come with a CFM (cubic feet per minute) rating. The first step is to calculate the cubic feet of air space inside the greenhouse. This is done by multiplying the L x W x H. As an example a 10 x 10 x 10 greenhouse would have air space of 1000 ft3. For small to medium size greenhouses, in the summer when ventilation needs are greatest, it is necessary to have the ability to exhaust the total volume of the air in the greenhouse in less than one minute. To accomplish this, a total fan capacity of 1.5 times the cubic feet of air space in the greenhouse is desirable. In this example that would be 1500 ft3. To allow for multiple combinations of air exchange it is best to divide this figure by two and get two fans with a combined capacity of the fan capacity needed. This also allows for a backup fan should one fan malfunction. It is also best to buy two-speed fans to allow for more venting options. In summer when full ventilation is needed, both fans would be set to the high setting. In winter, 35 percent of this total exhaust capacity would be appropriate and could be achieved by running only one of the fans on low. In spring and fall one fan on high may be most appropriate.
The proper size for lovers is based on the high end CFM of the exhaust fans and can be estimated by taking 2% of the CFM and making sure the lovers L + W in inches is equal to or greater than this number. In the above example 2% of 1500 is 30 so a 10x20 inch lover would be adequate.
Temperature Regulation
For temperature regulation, it is desirable to have some form of automated system. This will require fans and lovers with motors and some form of thermostatic control. Louvers need to shut and fans shut off when the temperature in the greenhouse drops below70°. Then, in the morning when the greenhouse heats up to above 78°, vents need to open and exhaust fans need to be turned back on. Fortunately, an ingenious, inexpensive alternative to traditional thermostats has been developed. These devises are called thermostatic outlets. These outlets plug into a standard electrical outlet and have an internal preset thermostat. Outlets come in two models, one for cooling and one for heating. The cooling outlet supplies power at 78° and cuts off at 70° and works great for controlling fans and louvers. The Heating outlet supplies power at 35° and cuts off at 45° and is great for automating heaters to keep greenhouse temperatures above freezing. These outlets can be found at: http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/accessory/controls.shtml, or by going to Amazon.com and searching on “outlet thermostat”.
Some greenhouse suppliers are now offering all inclusive kits that come with motorized inlet and exhaust lovers, exhaust fans and thermostatic controls. The prices on some if these kits are quite reasonable and provide a viable alternative to assembling the components separately.
The following are a few venders who stock ventilation packages:
http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FA-VPK
http://www.greenhousesetc.com/accessories.shtml
http://www.kidsgardeningstore.com/12-2370.html
http://nga-gardenshop.stores.yahoo.net/12-2374.html
Proper ventilation is a must for any greenhouse, and fortunately, with a little research and planning, it can be provided without breaking the bank.
Calculating Fan and Lover Requirements
Fans come with a CFM (cubic feet per minute) rating. The first step is to calculate the cubic feet of air space inside the greenhouse. This is done by multiplying the L x W x H. As an example a 10 x 10 x 10 greenhouse would have air space of 1000 ft3. For small to medium size greenhouses, in the summer when ventilation needs are greatest, it is necessary to have the ability to exhaust the total volume of the air in the greenhouse in less than one minute. To accomplish this, a total fan capacity of 1.5 times the cubic feet of air space in the greenhouse is desirable. In this example that would be 1500 ft3. To allow for multiple combinations of air exchange it is best to divide this figure by two and get two fans with a combined capacity of the fan capacity needed. This also allows for a backup fan should one fan malfunction. It is also best to buy two-speed fans to allow for more venting options. In summer when full ventilation is needed, both fans would be set to the high setting. In winter, 35 percent of this total exhaust capacity would be appropriate and could be achieved by running only one of the fans on low. In spring and fall one fan on high may be most appropriate.
The proper size for lovers is based on the high end CFM of the exhaust fans and can be estimated by taking 2% of the CFM and making sure the lovers L + W in inches is equal to or greater than this number. In the above example 2% of 1500 is 30 so a 10x20 inch lover would be adequate.
Temperature Regulation
For temperature regulation, it is desirable to have some form of automated system. This will require fans and lovers with motors and some form of thermostatic control. Louvers need to shut and fans shut off when the temperature in the greenhouse drops below70°. Then, in the morning when the greenhouse heats up to above 78°, vents need to open and exhaust fans need to be turned back on. Fortunately, an ingenious, inexpensive alternative to traditional thermostats has been developed. These devises are called thermostatic outlets. These outlets plug into a standard electrical outlet and have an internal preset thermostat. Outlets come in two models, one for cooling and one for heating. The cooling outlet supplies power at 78° and cuts off at 70° and works great for controlling fans and louvers. The Heating outlet supplies power at 35° and cuts off at 45° and is great for automating heaters to keep greenhouse temperatures above freezing. These outlets can be found at: http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/accessory/controls.shtml, or by going to Amazon.com and searching on “outlet thermostat”.
Some greenhouse suppliers are now offering all inclusive kits that come with motorized inlet and exhaust lovers, exhaust fans and thermostatic controls. The prices on some if these kits are quite reasonable and provide a viable alternative to assembling the components separately.
The following are a few venders who stock ventilation packages:
http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FA-VPK
http://www.greenhousesetc.com/accessories.shtml
http://www.kidsgardeningstore.com/12-2370.html
http://nga-gardenshop.stores.yahoo.net/12-2374.html
Proper ventilation is a must for any greenhouse, and fortunately, with a little research and planning, it can be provided without breaking the bank.
How to Use Foliar Fertilizers for Fantastic Plants
What is Foliar Feeding?
Foliar Feeding is a technique for feeding plants by applying liquid fertiliser directly to their leaves. The most touted benefit of foliar fertilizers is their capacity to promote maximum nutrient absorption. This is based on the belief that foliar fertilizers cause an increase in sugar levels in plants which then stimulate soil activity and plant nutrient uptake.
In 1953, the U. S. Atomic Energy Department provided a grant and radioisotopes of all plant nutrients to Michigan State University. The objective was to study the foliar absorption of fertilizer nutrients and trace their movement in the plants. The study showed that foliar applied nutrients are absorbed by the leaves and they were even absorbed through the woody tissue of trees (bark). Amazingly, the study found that it was 8-10 times more effective to foliar feed a plant as far as the amount of nutrients required and the speed with which those nutrients were utilized.
As a result, spraying foliage with liquid nutrients can produce remarkable yields, just as spraying plants with a non selective herbicide like Roundup will kill the plants down to the roots. The leaves are a very effective transport mechanism for both nutrients and poison. Foliar feeding is especially useful in delivering nutrients that don't move from one part of the plant to another well. Phosphorous and iron are two examples of this. By foliar feeding, these nutrients are available to new growth much more quickly. Folier feeding may seem to go against long-standing garden practices of never allowing the leaves to get wet, particularly on some plants like Aferican vilotes or tomatoes. Because folier feeding is done with a fine mist and in the morning allowing leaves to dry, the benefits far outway any risks.
Other Benefits of Foliar Feeding
In addition to promoting maximum nutrient uptake, foliar fertilizers may have other benefits including the prevention of plant diseases and fungal attack. The reason is that, foliar fertilizers cover the leaves and stems, the plant parts that are susceptible to pests and parasites. Perhaps the biggest side benefit of foliar feeding is that it can increase the plants uptake of nutrients from the soil.
Feeding through the leaves works more quickly than adding fertilizer to soil which then has to be taken up through a plant's root system. Foliar feeding is not a substitute for root feeding, but used in conjunction with root feeding, foliar feeding can increase its effectiveness. By applying a foliar fertilizer directly to the leaf, it increases the activity in the leaf, at the same time increasing chlorophyll and thus photosynthesis. Because of this increased activity, it increases the need for water by the leaf. In turn this increases water uptake by the plants vascular system, which in turn increases the uptake of nutrients from the soil.
Foliar feeding is also finding favor unong many organic gardeners. Organic gardening involves cultivating naturally healthy soil. This is a gradual process which can make it difficult to provide some trace nutrients in sufficient quantity. By foliar feeding, trace nutrients can be suplemented directly, without disrupting soil development.
The Basics and Tips For Applying Foliar Fertilizers:
It is always advisable to dilute foliar fertilizer first before application. Too much concentration of foliar fertilizers may cause foliage burning. Make sure the solution is not too concentrated by spraying a few healthy leaves to see if there is any damage. If the leaves curl or look unhealthy in any way two days after spraying, dilute the mix by 50% and try again.
Make sure that the PH level of your foliar fertilizer spray is at a neutral range. If the spray is a concentrate that is mixed with water, use pH adjusted water or distilled water for making the solution.
Foliar fertilizer sprays achieve best effect by using a fine mist, allowing the liquid to drift over the plants.
Nutrient absorption of foliar fertilizers is enhanced when the air is humid and moist with a temperature of 80 degrees or below (Fahrenheit). This is due to the fact that the plants' main nutrient canals, the stomata, are open in low temperatures. The best time to spray is in the morning so the spray has time to dry.
After foliar feeding the first day, spray the plants with pH adjusted water daily for a few days. This provides the plant an opportunity to absorb any fertilizer residue.
For better nutrient absorption, make sure that your foliar fertilizer sprays reach the undersides of leaves, where the stomata are located.
Sea-based nutrient mixes, especially seaweed and alge concentrates are great for foliar feeding, because they have all the trace elements plants need in suspension and it may be harder to balance these elements within the soil.
Another good, relatively new product is vermi liquid from worm farms. It is full of different nutrients which are wonderful for foliar feeding.
To minimize runoff and help these sprays stick to the leaves, add a quarter of a teaspoon of liquid detergent to each gallon of spray.
For indoor plants, apply once a month. For flowers and vegetables outside, apply every two weeks, preferably in the mornings.
For best results, plants are often sprayed during their critical growth stages such as transplanting time, blooming time and just after fruit sets. By applying during flower set, foliar feeding may cause a dramatic increase in fruit production.
Modern Foliar Fertilizer Choices
Modern foliar fertilizers are concentrated solutions using very high grade elements, in which the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are combined to the desired ratio in a controlled environment. The fertilizing elements in these high tech sprays are true solutions, soluble, and thus very available to plants. To most of these commercial foliar solutions, trace elements in the form of chelates are added, along with seaweed and /or humic acid, or other additives depending on preference, to give a balanced fertilizer, supplying not only NPK, but all the trace elements as well as growth hormones and vitamins etc.
One company JTM Nutrients has developed an extensive line of foliar Fertilizers. They have specialized products for every phase of the plants life cycle from seedlings and cuttings to leaf growth and flowering and fruiting. They have a product to do the job. The following is a list of other foliar spray products that can be found with a simple internet search on their name:
Vita Grow Thunder Bloom Foliar Spray.
B'Cuzz Foliar Spray
Bill's Perfect Fertilizer
DNF Enhance
Dutch Master Penetrator
Earth Juice Essential
Spray-N-Grow
Sea Rich
GreenSense Foliar Juice
Nitrozime
General Hydroponics Chi Liquid Organic Foliar Spray
With all of these great products available, there is no excuse for not giving foliar feeding a try. It is fast, easy, relatively inexpensive and very effective.
Foliar Feeding is a technique for feeding plants by applying liquid fertiliser directly to their leaves. The most touted benefit of foliar fertilizers is their capacity to promote maximum nutrient absorption. This is based on the belief that foliar fertilizers cause an increase in sugar levels in plants which then stimulate soil activity and plant nutrient uptake.
In 1953, the U. S. Atomic Energy Department provided a grant and radioisotopes of all plant nutrients to Michigan State University. The objective was to study the foliar absorption of fertilizer nutrients and trace their movement in the plants. The study showed that foliar applied nutrients are absorbed by the leaves and they were even absorbed through the woody tissue of trees (bark). Amazingly, the study found that it was 8-10 times more effective to foliar feed a plant as far as the amount of nutrients required and the speed with which those nutrients were utilized.
As a result, spraying foliage with liquid nutrients can produce remarkable yields, just as spraying plants with a non selective herbicide like Roundup will kill the plants down to the roots. The leaves are a very effective transport mechanism for both nutrients and poison. Foliar feeding is especially useful in delivering nutrients that don't move from one part of the plant to another well. Phosphorous and iron are two examples of this. By foliar feeding, these nutrients are available to new growth much more quickly. Folier feeding may seem to go against long-standing garden practices of never allowing the leaves to get wet, particularly on some plants like Aferican vilotes or tomatoes. Because folier feeding is done with a fine mist and in the morning allowing leaves to dry, the benefits far outway any risks.
Other Benefits of Foliar Feeding
In addition to promoting maximum nutrient uptake, foliar fertilizers may have other benefits including the prevention of plant diseases and fungal attack. The reason is that, foliar fertilizers cover the leaves and stems, the plant parts that are susceptible to pests and parasites. Perhaps the biggest side benefit of foliar feeding is that it can increase the plants uptake of nutrients from the soil.
Feeding through the leaves works more quickly than adding fertilizer to soil which then has to be taken up through a plant's root system. Foliar feeding is not a substitute for root feeding, but used in conjunction with root feeding, foliar feeding can increase its effectiveness. By applying a foliar fertilizer directly to the leaf, it increases the activity in the leaf, at the same time increasing chlorophyll and thus photosynthesis. Because of this increased activity, it increases the need for water by the leaf. In turn this increases water uptake by the plants vascular system, which in turn increases the uptake of nutrients from the soil.
Foliar feeding is also finding favor unong many organic gardeners. Organic gardening involves cultivating naturally healthy soil. This is a gradual process which can make it difficult to provide some trace nutrients in sufficient quantity. By foliar feeding, trace nutrients can be suplemented directly, without disrupting soil development.
The Basics and Tips For Applying Foliar Fertilizers:
It is always advisable to dilute foliar fertilizer first before application. Too much concentration of foliar fertilizers may cause foliage burning. Make sure the solution is not too concentrated by spraying a few healthy leaves to see if there is any damage. If the leaves curl or look unhealthy in any way two days after spraying, dilute the mix by 50% and try again.
Make sure that the PH level of your foliar fertilizer spray is at a neutral range. If the spray is a concentrate that is mixed with water, use pH adjusted water or distilled water for making the solution.
Foliar fertilizer sprays achieve best effect by using a fine mist, allowing the liquid to drift over the plants.
Nutrient absorption of foliar fertilizers is enhanced when the air is humid and moist with a temperature of 80 degrees or below (Fahrenheit). This is due to the fact that the plants' main nutrient canals, the stomata, are open in low temperatures. The best time to spray is in the morning so the spray has time to dry.
After foliar feeding the first day, spray the plants with pH adjusted water daily for a few days. This provides the plant an opportunity to absorb any fertilizer residue.
For better nutrient absorption, make sure that your foliar fertilizer sprays reach the undersides of leaves, where the stomata are located.
Sea-based nutrient mixes, especially seaweed and alge concentrates are great for foliar feeding, because they have all the trace elements plants need in suspension and it may be harder to balance these elements within the soil.
Another good, relatively new product is vermi liquid from worm farms. It is full of different nutrients which are wonderful for foliar feeding.
To minimize runoff and help these sprays stick to the leaves, add a quarter of a teaspoon of liquid detergent to each gallon of spray.
For indoor plants, apply once a month. For flowers and vegetables outside, apply every two weeks, preferably in the mornings.
For best results, plants are often sprayed during their critical growth stages such as transplanting time, blooming time and just after fruit sets. By applying during flower set, foliar feeding may cause a dramatic increase in fruit production.
Modern Foliar Fertilizer Choices
Modern foliar fertilizers are concentrated solutions using very high grade elements, in which the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are combined to the desired ratio in a controlled environment. The fertilizing elements in these high tech sprays are true solutions, soluble, and thus very available to plants. To most of these commercial foliar solutions, trace elements in the form of chelates are added, along with seaweed and /or humic acid, or other additives depending on preference, to give a balanced fertilizer, supplying not only NPK, but all the trace elements as well as growth hormones and vitamins etc.
One company JTM Nutrients has developed an extensive line of foliar Fertilizers. They have specialized products for every phase of the plants life cycle from seedlings and cuttings to leaf growth and flowering and fruiting. They have a product to do the job. The following is a list of other foliar spray products that can be found with a simple internet search on their name:
Vita Grow Thunder Bloom Foliar Spray.
B'Cuzz Foliar Spray
Bill's Perfect Fertilizer
DNF Enhance
Dutch Master Penetrator
Earth Juice Essential
Spray-N-Grow
Sea Rich
GreenSense Foliar Juice
Nitrozime
General Hydroponics Chi Liquid Organic Foliar Spray
With all of these great products available, there is no excuse for not giving foliar feeding a try. It is fast, easy, relatively inexpensive and very effective.
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