Wow! I just was searching for some home furnishings and found a great site.
They not only offer discount prices, but they have some big name, quality brands like Wesley Allen, American Drew, Lane Furniture and Collezione Europa to name a few. The website is pleasing to look at and easy to navigate to find what you are looking for fast. The selection is huge! You can find furniture for all areas of your house except the outside. Check out their links below:
Bedroom Furniture
Lane Furniture
Wesley Allen
On a personal score, I am a big customer of the online shopping mall for all sorts of things. Fortunately, this ease of buying has not resulted in the need to seek credit counseling. Unfortunately what it has resulted in is several instances of fraud on my credit cards and one case of large scale identity theft. That was a major hassle! I started receiving credit cards in the mail with a large purchase already on them. What the thieves were doing is opening up accounts online under my name and making one large purchase and having it shipped to an alternate address. As far as credit goes, I don't think these fraud activities have impacted my personal score, but I am not sure. I had to go Equifax and the other two credit reporting agencies and place a seven year fraud block on my accounts. I would recommend that everyone do this because it makes in harder to get ripped off. By the way, you can now get a free credit report online. Just do a search on that term to find the source. Are these minor setbacks going to keep me out of the online shopping mall? No way! The bargain discount shopping and price comparison shopping are too good to pass up.
Wednesday, November 28, 2007
Tuesday, November 27, 2007
A Quick and Easy Guide to Providing Plants with Proper Light
Most so called “house plants” have low light requirements and can generally be grown indoors without additional lighting. Where things get a little more complicated is when vegetable and fruit producing plants are added to the indoor garden, or even some outdoor areas. These plants require more light for optimal growth and production. It is important to be able to estimate the amount of light needed for growing each type of plant and the lighting options available for replacing or supplementing natural sunlight for indoor or greenhouse gardening. The use of an inexpensive light meter and a general understanding of plant lighting terminology will help lead to successful garden light management.
A quick search on the internet for “indoor plant light requirements” will provide many sources and most of them will give the same or close to the same requirements. These requirements are not for general house plants, but for their light hungry cousins that are more commonly grown outside. Most charts, like the one below, give a recommended coverage for a particular watt light used as both an exclusive lighting source and when supplemented with some natural sunlight.
Light Size Estimates for Growing Fruits and Vegetables Indoors
Watts Coverage With Sunlight
250 3' x 3' 4' x 4'
400 4' x 4' 6' x 6'
600 5' x 5' 7' x 7'
1000 7' x 7' 11' x 11'
Given these general guidelines for the area that can be covered by a particular watt light, it is important to provide the proper type of light that plants need. There are three main types of lights available for growing plants. The three types are: metal halide, high pressure sodium and MH/HPS dual spectrum lights.
Metal halide and High Pressure Sodium Lights
Metal halide lights produce a strong output of blue spectrum light which will result in strong vegetative growth. These lights produce enough red spectrum light for plant production, but the amount of red spectrum light they produce is not optimal for flowering and fruiting. It is for this reason that many indoor growers switch from metal halide to high pressure sodium lights once plants enter the flowering and fruiting stage, because these lights produce high output in the red spectrum. Another option is to use both metal halide and high pressure sodium lights, but using dual spectrum lights may be more practical.
MH/HPS Dual Spectrum Lights
The third type of light available, MH/HPS dual spectrum lighting, combines the advantages of both the metal halide and high pressure sodium bulbs in one lighting system. This is an innovative system and will produce great results throughout all growth cycles. One disadvantage is that these lights can be expensive, but with prices coming down and the need to only purchase one set of bulbs rather than two, price may not be as big an issue as it once was. It could, however, be argued that using metal halide lighting and switching to high pressure sodium bulbs for the flowering and fruiting stage gives plants more of precisely the light they need during both the growth and flowering and fruiting stages. The following links may be helpful in locating high quality MH/HPS Dual Spectrum Lights:
http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/items.asp?Cc=DS
http://www.specialty-lights.com/5915.html
http://www.hydroempire.com/store/index.php/cPath/3_21
A Light Meter is a Good Gardening Investment
Charts like the one above are helpful for estimating light requirements for a given indoor space where artificial light is the exclusive light source for the garden. For outdoor gardens, greenhouses and indoor spaces where some natural light is available it is beneficial to have a light meter to more precisely measure light and make adjustments accordingly. Light meters are available starting at around $20 and can be used to pick good ornamental house plants for any given location in the house, as well as to estimate additional lighting needs for high light plants including most fruits and vegetables.
Some of these meters come with lighting suggestions for many popular plants to help identify the best light level. The following links will be helpful in comparing brands and prices:
http://www.hhydro.com/cgi-bin/hhydro/LIGHT_METER.html
http://www.planetnatural.com/cgi-bin/planetnatural/grow-light-meter
http://www.growlightsource.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=725
http://wardsci.com/product.asp?pn=IG0013396&sid=mercent&mr:referralID=b235845b-ed9f-48d3-b738-5ee8a2bf9462
http://www.lusterleaf.com/Environmental%20Monitoring/pages/1870.html
The choices available for indoor plant lighting can be daunting, but the following steps can help one to zero in on the best system for a particular application:
1. Use the chart above to estimate the total wattage of light for the size of garden space. Use the links provided in this article, or find others by doing an internet search on “grow light”, and compare prices based on the watts needed. Consider three options: a) Metal halide lights with fixtures and ballasts and high pressure sodium conversion bulbs of the same size to switch to for the flowering and fruiting stage. When using standard bulbs you can only match the same type of bulb to the same type of ballast. Make sure to buy what is called a conversion bulb. This is a special bulb that will operate on the opposite type of ballast and can be purchased in all three bulb types b) Split the wattage evenly between metal halide and high pressure sodium lights. c) MH/HPS dual spectrum lights.
2. Invest in an inexpensive light meter. Use it to check the light level of all gardens that do not receive full sun, including greenhouses, patios and other shaded areas. The meter will be particularly helpful in selecting indoor plants based on available light for various areas of the house and measuring light to adjust the artificial light provided to indoor gardens.
3. Any light bulb will loose brightness over time. Metal Halide lamps will lose about 25% of their lumen output after a year of continual use. High pressure sodium bulbs last about twice as long and dual spectrum lights are between the two. Each bulb type is generally replaced at one year, 18 months and two years respectively. Alternatively, they may be used longer if more light is added to the garden to make up for the lost lumen output. A light meter is invaluable in determining how light output from a system has changed over time and making adjustments or bulb replacements accordingly.
How Many Hours Daily Light are Optimal?
Botanists classify plants into three categories concerning their reaction to hours of light. Some plants are classified as “short day” plants and will not flower unless they receive less than 12 hours of light each day. Examples of these plants are Christmas cactus, chrysanthemums and poinsettias. Some vegetables including tomatoes, corn and cucumbers are classified as “day neutral” plants because they will flower regardless of the number of hours of light received each day. Most of these “day neutral” plants will however perform best if given a relatively long day of 18 or so hours of light. Many summer blooming flowers and garden vegetables are classified as “long day” plants. Lettuce, spinach and potatoes are in this category. These and other long day plants all bloom when the night cycles are short.
Some plants are not classified as strictly "short day", but will perform best with 12 to 14 hour days. Most lettuces, herbs, broccoli, cauliflower, snow peas, chard and other spring and fall crops fall into this category. For indoor gardens containing a mixture of plants it is best to use around 14 hours of light each day. This will be short enough for the above mentioned plants to do well and long enough to keep the “day neutral” and “long day” plants that prefer a longer day producing. If these light lovers can be grown separately, give them a full 18 hours of light each day for maximum results.
Understanding the Terms Full Sun, Part Shade and Full Shade
Plants labeled as requiring full sun do not actually require direct sun all day long. Full sun means that the plant need at least six hours of direct sunlight each day and preferably including noon sun as part of this. Part shade plants require three to six hours of direct sun each day and preferably not direct sun during the intense mid day. Full shade plants do well on less than three hours of low intensity morning or late afternoon sun each day.
This information and an inexpensive light meter will help in making good lighting decisions to successfully manage light for both indoor and outdoor gardens.
A quick search on the internet for “indoor plant light requirements” will provide many sources and most of them will give the same or close to the same requirements. These requirements are not for general house plants, but for their light hungry cousins that are more commonly grown outside. Most charts, like the one below, give a recommended coverage for a particular watt light used as both an exclusive lighting source and when supplemented with some natural sunlight.
Light Size Estimates for Growing Fruits and Vegetables Indoors
Watts Coverage With Sunlight
250 3' x 3' 4' x 4'
400 4' x 4' 6' x 6'
600 5' x 5' 7' x 7'
1000 7' x 7' 11' x 11'
Given these general guidelines for the area that can be covered by a particular watt light, it is important to provide the proper type of light that plants need. There are three main types of lights available for growing plants. The three types are: metal halide, high pressure sodium and MH/HPS dual spectrum lights.
Metal halide and High Pressure Sodium Lights
Metal halide lights produce a strong output of blue spectrum light which will result in strong vegetative growth. These lights produce enough red spectrum light for plant production, but the amount of red spectrum light they produce is not optimal for flowering and fruiting. It is for this reason that many indoor growers switch from metal halide to high pressure sodium lights once plants enter the flowering and fruiting stage, because these lights produce high output in the red spectrum. Another option is to use both metal halide and high pressure sodium lights, but using dual spectrum lights may be more practical.
MH/HPS Dual Spectrum Lights
The third type of light available, MH/HPS dual spectrum lighting, combines the advantages of both the metal halide and high pressure sodium bulbs in one lighting system. This is an innovative system and will produce great results throughout all growth cycles. One disadvantage is that these lights can be expensive, but with prices coming down and the need to only purchase one set of bulbs rather than two, price may not be as big an issue as it once was. It could, however, be argued that using metal halide lighting and switching to high pressure sodium bulbs for the flowering and fruiting stage gives plants more of precisely the light they need during both the growth and flowering and fruiting stages. The following links may be helpful in locating high quality MH/HPS Dual Spectrum Lights:
http://www.bghydro.com/BGH/items.asp?Cc=DS
http://www.specialty-lights.com/5915.html
http://www.hydroempire.com/store/index.php/cPath/3_21
A Light Meter is a Good Gardening Investment
Charts like the one above are helpful for estimating light requirements for a given indoor space where artificial light is the exclusive light source for the garden. For outdoor gardens, greenhouses and indoor spaces where some natural light is available it is beneficial to have a light meter to more precisely measure light and make adjustments accordingly. Light meters are available starting at around $20 and can be used to pick good ornamental house plants for any given location in the house, as well as to estimate additional lighting needs for high light plants including most fruits and vegetables.
Some of these meters come with lighting suggestions for many popular plants to help identify the best light level. The following links will be helpful in comparing brands and prices:
http://www.hhydro.com/cgi-bin/hhydro/LIGHT_METER.html
http://www.planetnatural.com/cgi-bin/planetnatural/grow-light-meter
http://www.growlightsource.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=725
http://wardsci.com/product.asp?pn=IG0013396&sid=mercent&mr:referralID=b235845b-ed9f-48d3-b738-5ee8a2bf9462
http://www.lusterleaf.com/Environmental%20Monitoring/pages/1870.html
The choices available for indoor plant lighting can be daunting, but the following steps can help one to zero in on the best system for a particular application:
1. Use the chart above to estimate the total wattage of light for the size of garden space. Use the links provided in this article, or find others by doing an internet search on “grow light”, and compare prices based on the watts needed. Consider three options: a) Metal halide lights with fixtures and ballasts and high pressure sodium conversion bulbs of the same size to switch to for the flowering and fruiting stage. When using standard bulbs you can only match the same type of bulb to the same type of ballast. Make sure to buy what is called a conversion bulb. This is a special bulb that will operate on the opposite type of ballast and can be purchased in all three bulb types b) Split the wattage evenly between metal halide and high pressure sodium lights. c) MH/HPS dual spectrum lights.
2. Invest in an inexpensive light meter. Use it to check the light level of all gardens that do not receive full sun, including greenhouses, patios and other shaded areas. The meter will be particularly helpful in selecting indoor plants based on available light for various areas of the house and measuring light to adjust the artificial light provided to indoor gardens.
3. Any light bulb will loose brightness over time. Metal Halide lamps will lose about 25% of their lumen output after a year of continual use. High pressure sodium bulbs last about twice as long and dual spectrum lights are between the two. Each bulb type is generally replaced at one year, 18 months and two years respectively. Alternatively, they may be used longer if more light is added to the garden to make up for the lost lumen output. A light meter is invaluable in determining how light output from a system has changed over time and making adjustments or bulb replacements accordingly.
How Many Hours Daily Light are Optimal?
Botanists classify plants into three categories concerning their reaction to hours of light. Some plants are classified as “short day” plants and will not flower unless they receive less than 12 hours of light each day. Examples of these plants are Christmas cactus, chrysanthemums and poinsettias. Some vegetables including tomatoes, corn and cucumbers are classified as “day neutral” plants because they will flower regardless of the number of hours of light received each day. Most of these “day neutral” plants will however perform best if given a relatively long day of 18 or so hours of light. Many summer blooming flowers and garden vegetables are classified as “long day” plants. Lettuce, spinach and potatoes are in this category. These and other long day plants all bloom when the night cycles are short.
Some plants are not classified as strictly "short day", but will perform best with 12 to 14 hour days. Most lettuces, herbs, broccoli, cauliflower, snow peas, chard and other spring and fall crops fall into this category. For indoor gardens containing a mixture of plants it is best to use around 14 hours of light each day. This will be short enough for the above mentioned plants to do well and long enough to keep the “day neutral” and “long day” plants that prefer a longer day producing. If these light lovers can be grown separately, give them a full 18 hours of light each day for maximum results.
Understanding the Terms Full Sun, Part Shade and Full Shade
Plants labeled as requiring full sun do not actually require direct sun all day long. Full sun means that the plant need at least six hours of direct sunlight each day and preferably including noon sun as part of this. Part shade plants require three to six hours of direct sun each day and preferably not direct sun during the intense mid day. Full shade plants do well on less than three hours of low intensity morning or late afternoon sun each day.
This information and an inexpensive light meter will help in making good lighting decisions to successfully manage light for both indoor and outdoor gardens.
Saturday, November 24, 2007
Juicing!
I have tried many full price and discount vitamins and supplements, but recently I bought a vegetable and fruit juicer and I found that it far outshines even the best discount vitamins and minerals. Each morning I take two apples, two carrots, two celery sticks and a one inch chunk of ginger root and run them through the machine and drink up. No wired feeling like with some discount vitamins and supplements. No bad gas or after taste like with some discount vitamins. No worry of health risks like I sometimes have taking discount vitamins. The juice helps me to get my daily servings of both fruit and vegetable, helps me not to get sick and curbs my apatite. It is packed with natural discount vitamins and minerals. If I rinse the juicer parts right after juicing it is easy and fast. I don't do anything else with my diet and eat what I want for lunch and dinner, but 40 minutes before dinner I repeat this juicing process. I have been losing fat at a healthy rate and have great energy.
Proper Greenhouse Ventilation on a Budget
Proper ventilation is one of the most important factors for success with greenhouse gardening. Fortunately, there are methods to properly ventilate a greenhouse that are not too expensive. Ventilation involves the active or passive exchange of inside air for outside air to control temperature, remove moisture and replenish carbon dioxide. In most cases it is desirable to have an active (fan driven) ventilation system rather than to rely only on convective currents to move air within and in and out of the greenhouse. Mechanical ventilation is best achieved by having properly sized exhaust fans at one end of the greenhouse near the top and properly sized inlet lovers at the other end near mid level. This allows fresh air to enter and circulate around the plants and drives hot air out rather than allowing it to super heat the greenhouse by remaining near the ceiling. Fans can be purchased with variable speeds that are adjusted by complex thermostats, but there are other ways to achieve similar results using inexpensive variable speed fans that can be purchased at any local hardware store.
Calculating Fan and Lover Requirements
Fans come with a CFM (cubic feet per minute) rating. The first step is to calculate the cubic feet of air space inside the greenhouse. This is done by multiplying the L x W x H. As an example a 10 x 10 x 10 greenhouse would have air space of 1000 ft3. For small to medium size greenhouses, in the summer when ventilation needs are greatest, it is necessary to have the ability to exhaust the total volume of the air in the greenhouse in less than one minute. To accomplish this, a total fan capacity of 1.5 times the cubic feet of air space in the greenhouse is desirable. In this example that would be 1500 ft3. To allow for multiple combinations of air exchange it is best to divide this figure by two and get two fans with a combined capacity of the fan capacity needed. This also allows for a backup fan should one fan malfunction. It is also best to buy two-speed fans to allow for more venting options. In summer when full ventilation is needed, both fans would be set to the high setting. In winter, 35 percent of this total exhaust capacity would be appropriate and could be achieved by running only one of the fans on low. In spring and fall one fan on high may be most appropriate.
The proper size for lovers is based on the high end CFM of the exhaust fans and can be estimated by taking 2% of the CFM and making sure the lovers L + W in inches is equal to or greater than this number. In the above example 2% of 1500 is 30 so a 10x20 inch lover would be adequate.
Temperature Regulation
For temperature regulation, it is desirable to have some form of automated system. This will require fans and lovers with motors and some form of thermostatic control. Louvers need to shut and fans shut off when the temperature in the greenhouse drops below70°. Then, in the morning when the greenhouse heats up to above 78°, vents need to open and exhaust fans need to be turned back on. Fortunately, an ingenious, inexpensive alternative to traditional thermostats has been developed. These devises are called thermostatic outlets. These outlets plug into a standard electrical outlet and have an internal preset thermostat. Outlets come in two models, one for cooling and one for heating. The cooling outlet supplies power at 78° and cuts off at 70° and works great for controlling fans and louvers. The Heating outlet supplies power at 35° and cuts off at 45° and is great for automating heaters to keep greenhouse temperatures above freezing. These outlets can be found at: http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/accessory/controls.shtml, or by going to Amazon.com and searching on “outlet thermostat”.
Some greenhouse suppliers are now offering all inclusive kits that come with motorized inlet and exhaust lovers, exhaust fans and thermostatic controls. The prices on some if these kits are quite reasonable and provide a viable alternative to assembling the components separately.
The following are a few venders who stock ventilation packages:
http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FA-VPK
http://www.greenhousesetc.com/accessories.shtml
http://www.kidsgardeningstore.com/12-2370.html
http://nga-gardenshop.stores.yahoo.net/12-2374.html
Proper ventilation is a must for any greenhouse, and fortunately, with a little research and planning, it can be provided without breaking the bank.
Calculating Fan and Lover Requirements
Fans come with a CFM (cubic feet per minute) rating. The first step is to calculate the cubic feet of air space inside the greenhouse. This is done by multiplying the L x W x H. As an example a 10 x 10 x 10 greenhouse would have air space of 1000 ft3. For small to medium size greenhouses, in the summer when ventilation needs are greatest, it is necessary to have the ability to exhaust the total volume of the air in the greenhouse in less than one minute. To accomplish this, a total fan capacity of 1.5 times the cubic feet of air space in the greenhouse is desirable. In this example that would be 1500 ft3. To allow for multiple combinations of air exchange it is best to divide this figure by two and get two fans with a combined capacity of the fan capacity needed. This also allows for a backup fan should one fan malfunction. It is also best to buy two-speed fans to allow for more venting options. In summer when full ventilation is needed, both fans would be set to the high setting. In winter, 35 percent of this total exhaust capacity would be appropriate and could be achieved by running only one of the fans on low. In spring and fall one fan on high may be most appropriate.
The proper size for lovers is based on the high end CFM of the exhaust fans and can be estimated by taking 2% of the CFM and making sure the lovers L + W in inches is equal to or greater than this number. In the above example 2% of 1500 is 30 so a 10x20 inch lover would be adequate.
Temperature Regulation
For temperature regulation, it is desirable to have some form of automated system. This will require fans and lovers with motors and some form of thermostatic control. Louvers need to shut and fans shut off when the temperature in the greenhouse drops below70°. Then, in the morning when the greenhouse heats up to above 78°, vents need to open and exhaust fans need to be turned back on. Fortunately, an ingenious, inexpensive alternative to traditional thermostats has been developed. These devises are called thermostatic outlets. These outlets plug into a standard electrical outlet and have an internal preset thermostat. Outlets come in two models, one for cooling and one for heating. The cooling outlet supplies power at 78° and cuts off at 70° and works great for controlling fans and louvers. The Heating outlet supplies power at 35° and cuts off at 45° and is great for automating heaters to keep greenhouse temperatures above freezing. These outlets can be found at: http://www.littlegreenhouse.com/accessory/controls.shtml, or by going to Amazon.com and searching on “outlet thermostat”.
Some greenhouse suppliers are now offering all inclusive kits that come with motorized inlet and exhaust lovers, exhaust fans and thermostatic controls. The prices on some if these kits are quite reasonable and provide a viable alternative to assembling the components separately.
The following are a few venders who stock ventilation packages:
http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/prodinfo.asp?number=FA-VPK
http://www.greenhousesetc.com/accessories.shtml
http://www.kidsgardeningstore.com/12-2370.html
http://nga-gardenshop.stores.yahoo.net/12-2374.html
Proper ventilation is a must for any greenhouse, and fortunately, with a little research and planning, it can be provided without breaking the bank.
How to Use Foliar Fertilizers for Fantastic Plants
What is Foliar Feeding?
Foliar Feeding is a technique for feeding plants by applying liquid fertiliser directly to their leaves. The most touted benefit of foliar fertilizers is their capacity to promote maximum nutrient absorption. This is based on the belief that foliar fertilizers cause an increase in sugar levels in plants which then stimulate soil activity and plant nutrient uptake.
In 1953, the U. S. Atomic Energy Department provided a grant and radioisotopes of all plant nutrients to Michigan State University. The objective was to study the foliar absorption of fertilizer nutrients and trace their movement in the plants. The study showed that foliar applied nutrients are absorbed by the leaves and they were even absorbed through the woody tissue of trees (bark). Amazingly, the study found that it was 8-10 times more effective to foliar feed a plant as far as the amount of nutrients required and the speed with which those nutrients were utilized.
As a result, spraying foliage with liquid nutrients can produce remarkable yields, just as spraying plants with a non selective herbicide like Roundup will kill the plants down to the roots. The leaves are a very effective transport mechanism for both nutrients and poison. Foliar feeding is especially useful in delivering nutrients that don't move from one part of the plant to another well. Phosphorous and iron are two examples of this. By foliar feeding, these nutrients are available to new growth much more quickly. Folier feeding may seem to go against long-standing garden practices of never allowing the leaves to get wet, particularly on some plants like Aferican vilotes or tomatoes. Because folier feeding is done with a fine mist and in the morning allowing leaves to dry, the benefits far outway any risks.
Other Benefits of Foliar Feeding
In addition to promoting maximum nutrient uptake, foliar fertilizers may have other benefits including the prevention of plant diseases and fungal attack. The reason is that, foliar fertilizers cover the leaves and stems, the plant parts that are susceptible to pests and parasites. Perhaps the biggest side benefit of foliar feeding is that it can increase the plants uptake of nutrients from the soil.
Feeding through the leaves works more quickly than adding fertilizer to soil which then has to be taken up through a plant's root system. Foliar feeding is not a substitute for root feeding, but used in conjunction with root feeding, foliar feeding can increase its effectiveness. By applying a foliar fertilizer directly to the leaf, it increases the activity in the leaf, at the same time increasing chlorophyll and thus photosynthesis. Because of this increased activity, it increases the need for water by the leaf. In turn this increases water uptake by the plants vascular system, which in turn increases the uptake of nutrients from the soil.
Foliar feeding is also finding favor unong many organic gardeners. Organic gardening involves cultivating naturally healthy soil. This is a gradual process which can make it difficult to provide some trace nutrients in sufficient quantity. By foliar feeding, trace nutrients can be suplemented directly, without disrupting soil development.
The Basics and Tips For Applying Foliar Fertilizers:
It is always advisable to dilute foliar fertilizer first before application. Too much concentration of foliar fertilizers may cause foliage burning. Make sure the solution is not too concentrated by spraying a few healthy leaves to see if there is any damage. If the leaves curl or look unhealthy in any way two days after spraying, dilute the mix by 50% and try again.
Make sure that the PH level of your foliar fertilizer spray is at a neutral range. If the spray is a concentrate that is mixed with water, use pH adjusted water or distilled water for making the solution.
Foliar fertilizer sprays achieve best effect by using a fine mist, allowing the liquid to drift over the plants.
Nutrient absorption of foliar fertilizers is enhanced when the air is humid and moist with a temperature of 80 degrees or below (Fahrenheit). This is due to the fact that the plants' main nutrient canals, the stomata, are open in low temperatures. The best time to spray is in the morning so the spray has time to dry.
After foliar feeding the first day, spray the plants with pH adjusted water daily for a few days. This provides the plant an opportunity to absorb any fertilizer residue.
For better nutrient absorption, make sure that your foliar fertilizer sprays reach the undersides of leaves, where the stomata are located.
Sea-based nutrient mixes, especially seaweed and alge concentrates are great for foliar feeding, because they have all the trace elements plants need in suspension and it may be harder to balance these elements within the soil.
Another good, relatively new product is vermi liquid from worm farms. It is full of different nutrients which are wonderful for foliar feeding.
To minimize runoff and help these sprays stick to the leaves, add a quarter of a teaspoon of liquid detergent to each gallon of spray.
For indoor plants, apply once a month. For flowers and vegetables outside, apply every two weeks, preferably in the mornings.
For best results, plants are often sprayed during their critical growth stages such as transplanting time, blooming time and just after fruit sets. By applying during flower set, foliar feeding may cause a dramatic increase in fruit production.
Modern Foliar Fertilizer Choices
Modern foliar fertilizers are concentrated solutions using very high grade elements, in which the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are combined to the desired ratio in a controlled environment. The fertilizing elements in these high tech sprays are true solutions, soluble, and thus very available to plants. To most of these commercial foliar solutions, trace elements in the form of chelates are added, along with seaweed and /or humic acid, or other additives depending on preference, to give a balanced fertilizer, supplying not only NPK, but all the trace elements as well as growth hormones and vitamins etc.
One company JTM Nutrients has developed an extensive line of foliar Fertilizers. They have specialized products for every phase of the plants life cycle from seedlings and cuttings to leaf growth and flowering and fruiting. They have a product to do the job. The following is a list of other foliar spray products that can be found with a simple internet search on their name:
Vita Grow Thunder Bloom Foliar Spray.
B'Cuzz Foliar Spray
Bill's Perfect Fertilizer
DNF Enhance
Dutch Master Penetrator
Earth Juice Essential
Spray-N-Grow
Sea Rich
GreenSense Foliar Juice
Nitrozime
General Hydroponics Chi Liquid Organic Foliar Spray
With all of these great products available, there is no excuse for not giving foliar feeding a try. It is fast, easy, relatively inexpensive and very effective.
Foliar Feeding is a technique for feeding plants by applying liquid fertiliser directly to their leaves. The most touted benefit of foliar fertilizers is their capacity to promote maximum nutrient absorption. This is based on the belief that foliar fertilizers cause an increase in sugar levels in plants which then stimulate soil activity and plant nutrient uptake.
In 1953, the U. S. Atomic Energy Department provided a grant and radioisotopes of all plant nutrients to Michigan State University. The objective was to study the foliar absorption of fertilizer nutrients and trace their movement in the plants. The study showed that foliar applied nutrients are absorbed by the leaves and they were even absorbed through the woody tissue of trees (bark). Amazingly, the study found that it was 8-10 times more effective to foliar feed a plant as far as the amount of nutrients required and the speed with which those nutrients were utilized.
As a result, spraying foliage with liquid nutrients can produce remarkable yields, just as spraying plants with a non selective herbicide like Roundup will kill the plants down to the roots. The leaves are a very effective transport mechanism for both nutrients and poison. Foliar feeding is especially useful in delivering nutrients that don't move from one part of the plant to another well. Phosphorous and iron are two examples of this. By foliar feeding, these nutrients are available to new growth much more quickly. Folier feeding may seem to go against long-standing garden practices of never allowing the leaves to get wet, particularly on some plants like Aferican vilotes or tomatoes. Because folier feeding is done with a fine mist and in the morning allowing leaves to dry, the benefits far outway any risks.
Other Benefits of Foliar Feeding
In addition to promoting maximum nutrient uptake, foliar fertilizers may have other benefits including the prevention of plant diseases and fungal attack. The reason is that, foliar fertilizers cover the leaves and stems, the plant parts that are susceptible to pests and parasites. Perhaps the biggest side benefit of foliar feeding is that it can increase the plants uptake of nutrients from the soil.
Feeding through the leaves works more quickly than adding fertilizer to soil which then has to be taken up through a plant's root system. Foliar feeding is not a substitute for root feeding, but used in conjunction with root feeding, foliar feeding can increase its effectiveness. By applying a foliar fertilizer directly to the leaf, it increases the activity in the leaf, at the same time increasing chlorophyll and thus photosynthesis. Because of this increased activity, it increases the need for water by the leaf. In turn this increases water uptake by the plants vascular system, which in turn increases the uptake of nutrients from the soil.
Foliar feeding is also finding favor unong many organic gardeners. Organic gardening involves cultivating naturally healthy soil. This is a gradual process which can make it difficult to provide some trace nutrients in sufficient quantity. By foliar feeding, trace nutrients can be suplemented directly, without disrupting soil development.
The Basics and Tips For Applying Foliar Fertilizers:
It is always advisable to dilute foliar fertilizer first before application. Too much concentration of foliar fertilizers may cause foliage burning. Make sure the solution is not too concentrated by spraying a few healthy leaves to see if there is any damage. If the leaves curl or look unhealthy in any way two days after spraying, dilute the mix by 50% and try again.
Make sure that the PH level of your foliar fertilizer spray is at a neutral range. If the spray is a concentrate that is mixed with water, use pH adjusted water or distilled water for making the solution.
Foliar fertilizer sprays achieve best effect by using a fine mist, allowing the liquid to drift over the plants.
Nutrient absorption of foliar fertilizers is enhanced when the air is humid and moist with a temperature of 80 degrees or below (Fahrenheit). This is due to the fact that the plants' main nutrient canals, the stomata, are open in low temperatures. The best time to spray is in the morning so the spray has time to dry.
After foliar feeding the first day, spray the plants with pH adjusted water daily for a few days. This provides the plant an opportunity to absorb any fertilizer residue.
For better nutrient absorption, make sure that your foliar fertilizer sprays reach the undersides of leaves, where the stomata are located.
Sea-based nutrient mixes, especially seaweed and alge concentrates are great for foliar feeding, because they have all the trace elements plants need in suspension and it may be harder to balance these elements within the soil.
Another good, relatively new product is vermi liquid from worm farms. It is full of different nutrients which are wonderful for foliar feeding.
To minimize runoff and help these sprays stick to the leaves, add a quarter of a teaspoon of liquid detergent to each gallon of spray.
For indoor plants, apply once a month. For flowers and vegetables outside, apply every two weeks, preferably in the mornings.
For best results, plants are often sprayed during their critical growth stages such as transplanting time, blooming time and just after fruit sets. By applying during flower set, foliar feeding may cause a dramatic increase in fruit production.
Modern Foliar Fertilizer Choices
Modern foliar fertilizers are concentrated solutions using very high grade elements, in which the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are combined to the desired ratio in a controlled environment. The fertilizing elements in these high tech sprays are true solutions, soluble, and thus very available to plants. To most of these commercial foliar solutions, trace elements in the form of chelates are added, along with seaweed and /or humic acid, or other additives depending on preference, to give a balanced fertilizer, supplying not only NPK, but all the trace elements as well as growth hormones and vitamins etc.
One company JTM Nutrients has developed an extensive line of foliar Fertilizers. They have specialized products for every phase of the plants life cycle from seedlings and cuttings to leaf growth and flowering and fruiting. They have a product to do the job. The following is a list of other foliar spray products that can be found with a simple internet search on their name:
Vita Grow Thunder Bloom Foliar Spray.
B'Cuzz Foliar Spray
Bill's Perfect Fertilizer
DNF Enhance
Dutch Master Penetrator
Earth Juice Essential
Spray-N-Grow
Sea Rich
GreenSense Foliar Juice
Nitrozime
General Hydroponics Chi Liquid Organic Foliar Spray
With all of these great products available, there is no excuse for not giving foliar feeding a try. It is fast, easy, relatively inexpensive and very effective.
Product Review – Dr.DoRight’s All Natural Plant Wash Concentrate
It is refreshing to see new gardening products developed from time to time which offer exciting new possibilities for natural gardening. Dr.DoRight’s Plant Wash Concentrate is such a product. Just as good hygiene is important to our health, properly cleaning plants on a regular basis can lead to increased photosynthesis, lush healthy growth and disease resistance. Clean plants also look better with clean shiny healthy leaves.
Dr.DoRight's is a non-toxic completely biodegradable formula crafted entirely from food grade plant and vegetable extracts and oils. Unlike most toxic conventional pest control products, this solution does not act on the insect's central nervous system, but rather on its respiratory system. It also acts to immediately degrade the proteins that protect certain insect's exoskeletons. Composed only from food-grade plant and vegetable extracts, Dr.DoRight's is free of harmful chemical additives and carcinogens making it safe to be around.
Dr.DoRight’s has been used with great success to combat spider mites, aphids, thrips, white flies and fungal gnats. By practicing good plant hygiene with weekly applications of this product, other problems like scale, powdery mildew and other plant fungus problems may be prevented. The product is easy to use by simply mixing the proper amount of concentrate with water and applying with a sprayer to the undersides of leaves and ground surface. As with all foliar spraying it should be done in the morning to allow for best absorption and drying without magnification from bright sunlight.
Dr.DoRight's is a non-toxic completely biodegradable formula crafted entirely from food grade plant and vegetable extracts and oils. Unlike most toxic conventional pest control products, this solution does not act on the insect's central nervous system, but rather on its respiratory system. It also acts to immediately degrade the proteins that protect certain insect's exoskeletons. Composed only from food-grade plant and vegetable extracts, Dr.DoRight's is free of harmful chemical additives and carcinogens making it safe to be around.
Dr.DoRight’s has been used with great success to combat spider mites, aphids, thrips, white flies and fungal gnats. By practicing good plant hygiene with weekly applications of this product, other problems like scale, powdery mildew and other plant fungus problems may be prevented. The product is easy to use by simply mixing the proper amount of concentrate with water and applying with a sprayer to the undersides of leaves and ground surface. As with all foliar spraying it should be done in the morning to allow for best absorption and drying without magnification from bright sunlight.
Brewing Compost Tea for Spectacular Gardens
In its simplest form, compost tea is liquid runoff and condensation that is captured from drainage containers under various compost bens and tumblers. Compost tea is also actively “brewed” by steeping healthy compost in water. Using compost tea is a great way to feed plants with soluble nutrients that will impact them more quickly than compost mixed into the soil. Good compost tea also helps to inoculate beneficial microorganisms into the soil and on plant surfaces through foliar feeding.
Making Compost Tea
For making pure compost tea only two ingredients are needed; compost and pure water. It is very important to start with fully finished, high quality compost to make compost tea. Because a relatively small amount of compost is used for making tea in comparison to the amount used when compost is worked directly into the soil, many gardeners would do well to purchase compost that is known to be of the highest quality for use in making their compost tea. The need for pure water for brewing compost tea cannot be overemphasized. Use filtered water that has been de-chlorinated and pH adjusted to 6.5.
In addition to the raw ingredients of quality compost and pure water, a suitable brewing container and “tea bag” will be needed. For most small applications a five gallon bucket with a cover works well for the brewing container and nylon stockings make fine tea bags. The nylon stockings allow only soluble components to enter the tea making it appropriate for spray applications. Compost tea is often produced without aeration or recirculation, but because of the marked benefits of aeration, and the fact that a small air pump can be purchased for less than $10 it is best to provide aeration to the brewing container. Air pumps, tubing and air defusing stones can be purchased at hydroponics or fish stores.
To set up the brewing bucket, attach an air defusing stone to air tubing and place it in the bottom of a five gallon bucket with a rock on top of the air stone to keep it submerged. Fill the bucket to within three inches from the top with filtered water that has been pH adjusted to 6.5. If distilled water is used, it will already be the proper pH and de-chlorinated. If the water contains chlorine, allow it to sit overnight with aeration before adding compost. Next, place a hand full or two of gravel or small rocks into a nylon stocking for weight and then add approximately one pound of quality finished compost. Tie the stocking securely with a string and suspend it in the bucket. Place a loose fitting lid on the bucket to control evaporation and keep foreign matter from getting into the brew.
There is no consistent time for brewing compost tea as it can vary, depending on the method, brewing equipment and environmental conditions. With some high tech commercial compost tea brewing systems, it can be as little as two days. With passive bucket systems it can take as long as three weeks. The longer the compost remains suspended in the water, the greater the amount of soluble materials that will be extracted from the compost. These include both living organisms and the nutrients that will feed them. Compost tea that is well-aerated will require a shorter brewing time than tea made without adequate agitation, so two weeks should be sufficient with this system. Environmental conditions can affect the brewing time and quality of the compost tea. Mild conditions that are neither too hot nor too cold are best. In the summer the brewing container should be placed in the shade. In very cold climates, tea may need to be brewed in the garage during the winter.
After two weeks of brewing the tea is ready for use in the garden. The tea is concentrated and should be used in a 1/10 ratio with water. For best results, use the tea both as a soil based application and in a spray bottle for foliar feeding. Once a compost tea batch is started it is best to allow some of the microbial rich tea to remain in the brew pot for each successive batch.
Variations
Additionally, tea may be brewed using fully composted steer manure or worm castings or even a combination of fish and seaweed. For further study, check into the practice of adding various compounds to compost tea either during the brewing process or just prior to application.
Serious Compost Tea Brewing
Once most gardeners experience the great results that are possible from using quality compost tea in the garden they generally graduate to professionally designed brewing systems. The good news is that these systems can be had for as little as $99 and are available for batches from five gallons to 9,000 gallons per day. The following are good resources for those interested in buying a quality compost tea brewing system.
Keep It Simple - http://www.simplici-tea.com/
North Country Organics - http://www.norganics.com/
VermiCo - http://www.vermico.com/
Acme Worm Farm - http://www.acmewormfarm.com/
Sustainable Agricultural Technologies - http://www.composttea.com/
Bob’s Brewers http://www.net-time.com/bobsbrew/
Making Compost Tea
For making pure compost tea only two ingredients are needed; compost and pure water. It is very important to start with fully finished, high quality compost to make compost tea. Because a relatively small amount of compost is used for making tea in comparison to the amount used when compost is worked directly into the soil, many gardeners would do well to purchase compost that is known to be of the highest quality for use in making their compost tea. The need for pure water for brewing compost tea cannot be overemphasized. Use filtered water that has been de-chlorinated and pH adjusted to 6.5.
In addition to the raw ingredients of quality compost and pure water, a suitable brewing container and “tea bag” will be needed. For most small applications a five gallon bucket with a cover works well for the brewing container and nylon stockings make fine tea bags. The nylon stockings allow only soluble components to enter the tea making it appropriate for spray applications. Compost tea is often produced without aeration or recirculation, but because of the marked benefits of aeration, and the fact that a small air pump can be purchased for less than $10 it is best to provide aeration to the brewing container. Air pumps, tubing and air defusing stones can be purchased at hydroponics or fish stores.
To set up the brewing bucket, attach an air defusing stone to air tubing and place it in the bottom of a five gallon bucket with a rock on top of the air stone to keep it submerged. Fill the bucket to within three inches from the top with filtered water that has been pH adjusted to 6.5. If distilled water is used, it will already be the proper pH and de-chlorinated. If the water contains chlorine, allow it to sit overnight with aeration before adding compost. Next, place a hand full or two of gravel or small rocks into a nylon stocking for weight and then add approximately one pound of quality finished compost. Tie the stocking securely with a string and suspend it in the bucket. Place a loose fitting lid on the bucket to control evaporation and keep foreign matter from getting into the brew.
There is no consistent time for brewing compost tea as it can vary, depending on the method, brewing equipment and environmental conditions. With some high tech commercial compost tea brewing systems, it can be as little as two days. With passive bucket systems it can take as long as three weeks. The longer the compost remains suspended in the water, the greater the amount of soluble materials that will be extracted from the compost. These include both living organisms and the nutrients that will feed them. Compost tea that is well-aerated will require a shorter brewing time than tea made without adequate agitation, so two weeks should be sufficient with this system. Environmental conditions can affect the brewing time and quality of the compost tea. Mild conditions that are neither too hot nor too cold are best. In the summer the brewing container should be placed in the shade. In very cold climates, tea may need to be brewed in the garage during the winter.
After two weeks of brewing the tea is ready for use in the garden. The tea is concentrated and should be used in a 1/10 ratio with water. For best results, use the tea both as a soil based application and in a spray bottle for foliar feeding. Once a compost tea batch is started it is best to allow some of the microbial rich tea to remain in the brew pot for each successive batch.
Variations
Additionally, tea may be brewed using fully composted steer manure or worm castings or even a combination of fish and seaweed. For further study, check into the practice of adding various compounds to compost tea either during the brewing process or just prior to application.
Serious Compost Tea Brewing
Once most gardeners experience the great results that are possible from using quality compost tea in the garden they generally graduate to professionally designed brewing systems. The good news is that these systems can be had for as little as $99 and are available for batches from five gallons to 9,000 gallons per day. The following are good resources for those interested in buying a quality compost tea brewing system.
Keep It Simple - http://www.simplici-tea.com/
North Country Organics - http://www.norganics.com/
VermiCo - http://www.vermico.com/
Acme Worm Farm - http://www.acmewormfarm.com/
Sustainable Agricultural Technologies - http://www.composttea.com/
Bob’s Brewers http://www.net-time.com/bobsbrew/
Wednesday, November 14, 2007
The Greenhouse Advantage for Seed Starting
With proper planning there are several advantages that greenhouse enthusiasts have for seed germinating and getting their plants off to a great start.
Jump Start the Growing Season – Just as greenhouse gardeners are able to extend the growing season they can get a head start as well. Many desirable plant varieties cannot be sowed until after the last freeze of the season and in some cases it takes even longer for the ground to warm to an appropriate temperature for optimum seed germination. In the greenhouse seed germination can start three to four weeks before the estimated last freeze of the season giving greenhouse gardeners a head start on their open air counterparts. This is particularly important for success with long season vegetables (those that require 70 or more days to produce) e.g., melons, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, corn, carrots and parsnips among others.
Climate Control – Most seeds germinate when the soil temperature is between 68 and 86°F. In some areas the greenhouse may be warm enough for good seed germination on its own, but if not, the sheltered environment of the greenhouse is a perfect place to use inexpensive soil heating cables or electric seed warming trays for starting seeds. An added advantage of the greenhouse for your new seedlings is protection from severe weather like strong wind, rain or unexpected cold that can be devastating to new sprouts. The increased humidity of the greenhouse also helps to provide an ideal germinating environment.
Pest Control – Seeds and young plants are particularly vulnerable to garden pests and predators. Birds in particular love seeds and often times they will dig them up from the ground before your plants even get a chance to sprout. This even happens when using sprouting trays or containers outside. Once seeds are sprouted, young plants are still quite vulnerable to small rodents and insects until they are 8-10 inches tall. The greenhouse gives plants protection from pests until they are strong enough to have a good chance of survival in the open air garden. An added benefit of the greenhouse is that it provides a wonderful environment for using biological pest control by releasing lady bugs into the greenhouse. Lady bugs will consume up to 1,000 aphids in their lifetimes in both their larvae and adult stages and work well in greenhouse settings.
Now is the Time! - If you have a greenhouse and have not considered starting your plants from seeds you now have all the information and reasons you need to start using this low cost alternative to starting your gardens. Good luck and happy propagation!
Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and sunflower specialist living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is also an editor for http://www.SunflowerOcity.com The Ultimate Sunflower Site has everything imaginable about sunflowers including great information, links to the best products, sites and discussion boards. You can reach Chris at Chris.Kline@sunflowerOcity.com.
Jump Start the Growing Season – Just as greenhouse gardeners are able to extend the growing season they can get a head start as well. Many desirable plant varieties cannot be sowed until after the last freeze of the season and in some cases it takes even longer for the ground to warm to an appropriate temperature for optimum seed germination. In the greenhouse seed germination can start three to four weeks before the estimated last freeze of the season giving greenhouse gardeners a head start on their open air counterparts. This is particularly important for success with long season vegetables (those that require 70 or more days to produce) e.g., melons, tomatoes, eggplants, peppers, corn, carrots and parsnips among others.
Climate Control – Most seeds germinate when the soil temperature is between 68 and 86°F. In some areas the greenhouse may be warm enough for good seed germination on its own, but if not, the sheltered environment of the greenhouse is a perfect place to use inexpensive soil heating cables or electric seed warming trays for starting seeds. An added advantage of the greenhouse for your new seedlings is protection from severe weather like strong wind, rain or unexpected cold that can be devastating to new sprouts. The increased humidity of the greenhouse also helps to provide an ideal germinating environment.
Pest Control – Seeds and young plants are particularly vulnerable to garden pests and predators. Birds in particular love seeds and often times they will dig them up from the ground before your plants even get a chance to sprout. This even happens when using sprouting trays or containers outside. Once seeds are sprouted, young plants are still quite vulnerable to small rodents and insects until they are 8-10 inches tall. The greenhouse gives plants protection from pests until they are strong enough to have a good chance of survival in the open air garden. An added benefit of the greenhouse is that it provides a wonderful environment for using biological pest control by releasing lady bugs into the greenhouse. Lady bugs will consume up to 1,000 aphids in their lifetimes in both their larvae and adult stages and work well in greenhouse settings.
Now is the Time! - If you have a greenhouse and have not considered starting your plants from seeds you now have all the information and reasons you need to start using this low cost alternative to starting your gardens. Good luck and happy propagation!
Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and sunflower specialist living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is also an editor for http://www.SunflowerOcity.com The Ultimate Sunflower Site has everything imaginable about sunflowers including great information, links to the best products, sites and discussion boards. You can reach Chris at Chris.Kline@sunflowerOcity.com.
Simple Seed Saving
Seed saving can be a rewarding and cost saving activity particularly if plants are selected for their good seed saving characteristics. This article will offer the beginning seed saver helpful advice on which plants to start with and how best to harvest, prepare and save the seeds. Bean/pea, lettuce, pepper, and tomato offer the beginning seed saver the best chance for successful seed saving. They produce seed the same season as planted and are mostly self-pollinating, minimizing the need to be mindful of preventing cross-pollination.
Always harvest seeds from the best plants available. Choose healthy disease-free plants with desirable qualities. Look for the most flavorful vegetables or beautiful flowers. Because seed set reduces the vigor of the plant and discourages further fruit production, wait until near the end of the season to save fruit for seed. Seeds are mature when flowers are faded and dry or have puffy tops.
Beans/Peas
Toward the end of the season and while healthy pods are still being formed allow the pods on some plants to dry brown before harvesting. This is about six weeks after eating stage for beans and four for peas. If frost threatens, pull the entire plant, and hang in cool, dry location until pods are brown.
Lettuce
With lettuce you will need to take care to separate varieties flowering at the same time by at least 20 feet to avoid cross pollination. Some outside leaves can still be harvested for eating without harming seed production. Once half the flowers have gone to seed, cut off the entire top of the plant and allow it to dry upside down in an open paper bag for 2-3 weeks.
Peppers
Some care must be taken to separate different varieties by at least 50 feet help ensure purity. Most peppers turn red when fully mature and this is the time to harvest seeds for saving. If frost threatens before peppers mature, pull the entire plant and hang in cool, dry location until peppers mature. Cut open mature peppers and scoop out the seeds. Follow with a gentle washing in a mild 10% bleach solution, and lay the seeds out in a single layer on white paper towels until the seeds have thoroughly dried.
Tomatoes
If possible, allow tomatoes to completely ripen before harvesting for seed production.
Slice open the tomato, squeeze out the pulp and seeds into a glass jar, add water up to about ¾ of the jar, and set aside for a few days. A residue will collect on the top of the water as well as some of the seeds (these are dead seeds). The water will clear and the viable seeds will sink to the bottom of the jar. After five days carefully scoop out the residue from the top and throw it away, pour off the water and then pour out the seeds from the bottom of the jar onto white paper towel for drying.
Seed Storage
Paper envelopes work well for storing each seed variety. Before storing test to make sure the seeds are dry enough by attempting to bend them. If the seeds snap instead of bending they are sufficiently dehydrated for storing. Large mason jars work well for storing your seed envelopes. Prepare a jar for seed storing by placing a small, cloth bag filled with dry, powdered milk in the bottom of the jar. This will help to absorb any moisture from the storage container. Place the seed envelopes in the jar, on top of the bag and tightly seal the jar. Next place the jar in the freezer for two days. This helps to kill any diseases that may be infecting the seeds. Find a place for long term storage that is a cool, dry, and dark where the temperatures remains fairly stable. A garage, storeroom, pantry, closet or even a drawer will work well.
A few weeks before planting time perform a test germination of saved seeds by placing the seeds on three layers of moist white paper towels, roll the towels loosely and place them in a plastic bag. Keep the bag in a warm place until germination occurs. Depending on the type of seeds germination may take anywhere from 2-14 days.
For more information on seed saving visit The International Seed Saving Institute at
http://www.seedsave.org/issi/issi_904.html
Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and sunflower specialist living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is also an editor for http://www.SunflowerOcity.com The Ultimate Sunflower Site has everything imaginable about sunflowers including great information, links to the best products, sites and discussion boards. You can reach Chris at Chris.Kline@sunflowerOcity.com.
Always harvest seeds from the best plants available. Choose healthy disease-free plants with desirable qualities. Look for the most flavorful vegetables or beautiful flowers. Because seed set reduces the vigor of the plant and discourages further fruit production, wait until near the end of the season to save fruit for seed. Seeds are mature when flowers are faded and dry or have puffy tops.
Beans/Peas
Toward the end of the season and while healthy pods are still being formed allow the pods on some plants to dry brown before harvesting. This is about six weeks after eating stage for beans and four for peas. If frost threatens, pull the entire plant, and hang in cool, dry location until pods are brown.
Lettuce
With lettuce you will need to take care to separate varieties flowering at the same time by at least 20 feet to avoid cross pollination. Some outside leaves can still be harvested for eating without harming seed production. Once half the flowers have gone to seed, cut off the entire top of the plant and allow it to dry upside down in an open paper bag for 2-3 weeks.
Peppers
Some care must be taken to separate different varieties by at least 50 feet help ensure purity. Most peppers turn red when fully mature and this is the time to harvest seeds for saving. If frost threatens before peppers mature, pull the entire plant and hang in cool, dry location until peppers mature. Cut open mature peppers and scoop out the seeds. Follow with a gentle washing in a mild 10% bleach solution, and lay the seeds out in a single layer on white paper towels until the seeds have thoroughly dried.
Tomatoes
If possible, allow tomatoes to completely ripen before harvesting for seed production.
Slice open the tomato, squeeze out the pulp and seeds into a glass jar, add water up to about ¾ of the jar, and set aside for a few days. A residue will collect on the top of the water as well as some of the seeds (these are dead seeds). The water will clear and the viable seeds will sink to the bottom of the jar. After five days carefully scoop out the residue from the top and throw it away, pour off the water and then pour out the seeds from the bottom of the jar onto white paper towel for drying.
Seed Storage
Paper envelopes work well for storing each seed variety. Before storing test to make sure the seeds are dry enough by attempting to bend them. If the seeds snap instead of bending they are sufficiently dehydrated for storing. Large mason jars work well for storing your seed envelopes. Prepare a jar for seed storing by placing a small, cloth bag filled with dry, powdered milk in the bottom of the jar. This will help to absorb any moisture from the storage container. Place the seed envelopes in the jar, on top of the bag and tightly seal the jar. Next place the jar in the freezer for two days. This helps to kill any diseases that may be infecting the seeds. Find a place for long term storage that is a cool, dry, and dark where the temperatures remains fairly stable. A garage, storeroom, pantry, closet or even a drawer will work well.
A few weeks before planting time perform a test germination of saved seeds by placing the seeds on three layers of moist white paper towels, roll the towels loosely and place them in a plastic bag. Keep the bag in a warm place until germination occurs. Depending on the type of seeds germination may take anywhere from 2-14 days.
For more information on seed saving visit The International Seed Saving Institute at
http://www.seedsave.org/issi/issi_904.html
Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and sunflower specialist living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is also an editor for http://www.SunflowerOcity.com The Ultimate Sunflower Site has everything imaginable about sunflowers including great information, links to the best products, sites and discussion boards. You can reach Chris at Chris.Kline@sunflowerOcity.com.
Seafood for Your Plants - Natures Wonder Fertilizer
This article takes a look at the benefits of fish based fertilizers as a great organic plant feeding alternative. As with any fertilizer it is important to understand the components of the fertilizer so that brands can be compared and the proper blend can be chosen and applied in the correct strength for various garden applications.
Some of the advantages and benefits of fish based fertilizers are:
1. Fewer applications are needed
2. Lower burn potential than chemical fertilizers
3. Comparatively slow release rate
4. Less leaching from the soil
All fertilizers, fish fertilizer included, are labeled with three numbers that represent the primary nutrients that plants need: nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. They are always listed as a percentage of those nutrients and always in that order. For example, a 4-1-2 fertilizer contains 4 percent, by weight, nitrogen, 1 percent phosphorous and 2 percent potassium. These can occur in different ratios and combinations, but they all represent the strength or concentration of the fertilizer. So an 8-2-4 would be twice as concentrated as a 4-1-2. This is important when comparing prices because it would take twice as much of the second fertilizer to equal the same amount of nutrient as the first.
Next, it is important to understand what the three primary nutrients do. Nitrogen is very important in plants for good foliage growth and dark green color. Phosphorous is important for rooting and also for blooming, and potassium is important for cold hardiness and plays a role in fruiting and blooming. It is possible to use a balanced fertilizer, one where the three numbers are equal or close to one another (15-15-15), throughout the growing cycle. A better plan is to look for a fertilizer brand that has at least two formulas to accommodate different stages in the plants growing cycle and/or different varieties of plants. For vegetables grown mostly for their leaves (salad or other greens) a fertilizer with more nitrogen than anything else (a higher first number) is best. For vegetables that flower first like peppers and tomatoes, a fertilizer with a higher proportion of phosphorus (a higher middle number) works well. Alternatively, some gardeners produce great results by using a high growth (high nitrogen) formula for the beginning of the growth cycle and then switch to a high bloom (high phosphorus) fertilizer when the plants begin to flower.
The three primary macronutrients have been discussed, but what about the other micronutrients that plants need to stay healthy. Fortunately the better fish fertilizer companies have added other wonderful products from the sea that complement the quality macro nutrients from the fish emulsion with a solid addition of micro nutrients. These additives are generally in for form of liquefied kelp and/or seaweed. It is a good idea to look for a brand of fish fertilizer that includes either, or both of these additives.
For added insurance from the sea, crab meal is one of the only options for a time release fertilizer that may be mixed with soil before planting or mixed in the topsoil after planting. It has the added benefit of being a great source of calcium which is critically important to avoid troubles like blossom end rot, particularly when using a high nitrogen fertilizer regime. Fertilizing every 2-3 weeks with a quality fish based fertilizer is a solid feeding plan for the organic garden. Below are three brands that are hard to beat.
Age Old carries an organic Fish/Seaweed Blend Fertilizer (3-3-2) that is a blend of processed fish hydro slates and North Atlantic sea kelp, loaded with macronutrients and bio-stimulants, it is an effective plant stress reducer and root stimulant that is rich in carbohydrates. Age Old also carries fish based fertilizers in growth (12-6-6) and bloom (5-10-5) formulations both contain fish solubles, feather meal & colloidal phosphates. Micronutrients are derived from seaweed extracts, borax and complex sugars. Both Age Old Grow and Bloom may be used in hydroponics systems.
Neptune’s Harvest carries an organic Fish/Seaweed Blend Fertilizer (2-3-1) containing blend of fish hydrolysate and seaweed plus a unique blend of micronutrients from a very special kelp extract. In addition to fish and fish/seaweed blend fertilizer, Neptune’s harvest also carries crab shell and kelp meal.
Sea Pal carries great fish based products with kelp and other nutrients. They also have a great selection of blends for planting, growth and bloom including, (3-1-1), (2,3,3), (6-3-3) and (2,10,10). For hydroponics systems, Sea Pal carries a full complement of fish based products that have been run through a 50 micron filter to ensure smooth flow in all types of hydroponic and aeroponic units.
Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is an editor for The Ultimate Sunflower Site http://www.SunflowerOcity.com, a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net/ and an owner of Greenhouse and Garden Supply http://greenhouseandgardensupply.com/.
You can reach Chris at Chris.Kline@sunflowerOcity.com.
Some of the advantages and benefits of fish based fertilizers are:
1. Fewer applications are needed
2. Lower burn potential than chemical fertilizers
3. Comparatively slow release rate
4. Less leaching from the soil
All fertilizers, fish fertilizer included, are labeled with three numbers that represent the primary nutrients that plants need: nitrogen, phosphorous and potassium. They are always listed as a percentage of those nutrients and always in that order. For example, a 4-1-2 fertilizer contains 4 percent, by weight, nitrogen, 1 percent phosphorous and 2 percent potassium. These can occur in different ratios and combinations, but they all represent the strength or concentration of the fertilizer. So an 8-2-4 would be twice as concentrated as a 4-1-2. This is important when comparing prices because it would take twice as much of the second fertilizer to equal the same amount of nutrient as the first.
Next, it is important to understand what the three primary nutrients do. Nitrogen is very important in plants for good foliage growth and dark green color. Phosphorous is important for rooting and also for blooming, and potassium is important for cold hardiness and plays a role in fruiting and blooming. It is possible to use a balanced fertilizer, one where the three numbers are equal or close to one another (15-15-15), throughout the growing cycle. A better plan is to look for a fertilizer brand that has at least two formulas to accommodate different stages in the plants growing cycle and/or different varieties of plants. For vegetables grown mostly for their leaves (salad or other greens) a fertilizer with more nitrogen than anything else (a higher first number) is best. For vegetables that flower first like peppers and tomatoes, a fertilizer with a higher proportion of phosphorus (a higher middle number) works well. Alternatively, some gardeners produce great results by using a high growth (high nitrogen) formula for the beginning of the growth cycle and then switch to a high bloom (high phosphorus) fertilizer when the plants begin to flower.
The three primary macronutrients have been discussed, but what about the other micronutrients that plants need to stay healthy. Fortunately the better fish fertilizer companies have added other wonderful products from the sea that complement the quality macro nutrients from the fish emulsion with a solid addition of micro nutrients. These additives are generally in for form of liquefied kelp and/or seaweed. It is a good idea to look for a brand of fish fertilizer that includes either, or both of these additives.
For added insurance from the sea, crab meal is one of the only options for a time release fertilizer that may be mixed with soil before planting or mixed in the topsoil after planting. It has the added benefit of being a great source of calcium which is critically important to avoid troubles like blossom end rot, particularly when using a high nitrogen fertilizer regime. Fertilizing every 2-3 weeks with a quality fish based fertilizer is a solid feeding plan for the organic garden. Below are three brands that are hard to beat.
Age Old carries an organic Fish/Seaweed Blend Fertilizer (3-3-2) that is a blend of processed fish hydro slates and North Atlantic sea kelp, loaded with macronutrients and bio-stimulants, it is an effective plant stress reducer and root stimulant that is rich in carbohydrates. Age Old also carries fish based fertilizers in growth (12-6-6) and bloom (5-10-5) formulations both contain fish solubles, feather meal & colloidal phosphates. Micronutrients are derived from seaweed extracts, borax and complex sugars. Both Age Old Grow and Bloom may be used in hydroponics systems.
Neptune’s Harvest carries an organic Fish/Seaweed Blend Fertilizer (2-3-1) containing blend of fish hydrolysate and seaweed plus a unique blend of micronutrients from a very special kelp extract. In addition to fish and fish/seaweed blend fertilizer, Neptune’s harvest also carries crab shell and kelp meal.
Sea Pal carries great fish based products with kelp and other nutrients. They also have a great selection of blends for planting, growth and bloom including, (3-1-1), (2,3,3), (6-3-3) and (2,10,10). For hydroponics systems, Sea Pal carries a full complement of fish based products that have been run through a 50 micron filter to ensure smooth flow in all types of hydroponic and aeroponic units.
Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is an editor for The Ultimate Sunflower Site http://www.SunflowerOcity.com, a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net/ and an owner of Greenhouse and Garden Supply http://greenhouseandgardensupply.com/.
You can reach Chris at Chris.Kline@sunflowerOcity.com.
How to Hand Pollinate Indoor Gardens
Some plants need a helping hand for good pollination when grown indoors or in a greenhouse, but it is easier than one may think.
Vegetables and other plants can be hand-pollinated by taking a Q-tip or small paint brush and transferring the pollen from the male flower to the female. Male flowers will bear stamens and female will bear pistils (the female always has a small fruit on the end). Make sure to clean the brush or use a new Q-tip when pollinating more than one type of the same plant. Hand pollination is necessary with plants that have a male and female flower like squash, cucumbers etc. This method is needed if growing vegetables indoors or in a controlled environment like a greenhouse.
Some plants need less help than others to pollinate indoors. All that is needed to help pepper and tomato plants is to gently shake the plant every couple of days to advance pollination. Some self pollinators like peas, beans and lettuce do not need any help to pollinate indoors.
Poor production from indoor and outdoor vegetables is often caused by over fertilizing with high nitrogen fertilizers rather than poor pollination. Fertilizers high in nitrogen are desirable during the growth cycle, but once the plants are ready to flower it is important to switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorus and potassium. These fertilizers generally have the word “bloom” in their name and should have a ratio that favors the last two numbers over the first, a fertilizer with a 1-2-2 ratio, for example.
Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is an editor for The Ultimate Sunflower Site http://www.SunflowerOcity.com, and an owner of Greenhouse and Garden Supply http://greenhouseandgardensupply.com/.
You can reach Chris at CKline72@Cox.net
Vegetables and other plants can be hand-pollinated by taking a Q-tip or small paint brush and transferring the pollen from the male flower to the female. Male flowers will bear stamens and female will bear pistils (the female always has a small fruit on the end). Make sure to clean the brush or use a new Q-tip when pollinating more than one type of the same plant. Hand pollination is necessary with plants that have a male and female flower like squash, cucumbers etc. This method is needed if growing vegetables indoors or in a controlled environment like a greenhouse.
Some plants need less help than others to pollinate indoors. All that is needed to help pepper and tomato plants is to gently shake the plant every couple of days to advance pollination. Some self pollinators like peas, beans and lettuce do not need any help to pollinate indoors.
Poor production from indoor and outdoor vegetables is often caused by over fertilizing with high nitrogen fertilizers rather than poor pollination. Fertilizers high in nitrogen are desirable during the growth cycle, but once the plants are ready to flower it is important to switch to a fertilizer higher in phosphorus and potassium. These fertilizers generally have the word “bloom” in their name and should have a ratio that favors the last two numbers over the first, a fertilizer with a 1-2-2 ratio, for example.
Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is an editor for The Ultimate Sunflower Site http://www.SunflowerOcity.com, and an owner of Greenhouse and Garden Supply http://greenhouseandgardensupply.com/.
You can reach Chris at CKline72@Cox.net
Natural Pest Control for the Greenhouse and Garden
Many gardners would rather use natural products to control pests, but are confused about developing an overall strategy for natural pest control. This article will investigate some effective options for controlling pests without toxic chemicals.
The best offense is a good defense and the easiest way to prevent insect damage is to discourage them from coming in to the garden in the first place. The following steps will help:
• Avoid Weak Plants - Find a local planting calendar by doing an internet search on the county in questions name and the words “planting calendar”. Make sure to only plant annuals during their proper planting season. This will help to assure healthy plants that can better combat minor infestation. Remove plants that clearly are doing poorly; they may already be infected. If not, they will attract pests. Pull the weak plants and dispose of them away from the garden area, and do not attempt to compost them.
• Build Healthy, Organic Soil - Natural composting methods, mulching and top-dressing your soil with compost or natural fertilizer is the best way to develop strong, vigorous plants. Get an inexpensive soil testing kit and follow the instructions to amend soil pH and other problems as necessary.
• Use Seaweed and Fish Fertilizer - Seaweed contains trace elements such as iron, zinc, barium, calcium, sulfur and magnesium, and fish emulsion contains primary nutrients which promote healthy development in plants. Seaweed and Fish fertilizer are a great organic alternative and will enhance growth and give plants the strength to better withstand disease.
• Clean Gardening Practices - Clean the garden area of debris and weeds which are breeding places for insects. Buy quality mulch and keep a thin layer on top of the soil. The mulch will discourage weeds, keep plant leaves out of the soil and hold in moisture.
• Interplant and Rotate Crops - Insect pests are often plant specific. When plantings are mixed, pests are less likely to spread throughout a crop. It also helps to plant aromatic flowers like marigolds between vegetables to discourage insects and inhibit their spread. Rotating crops each year is a common method to avoid re-infestation of pests which have over-wintered in the ground. In some cases where soil bound pests are abundant it may be necessary to undertake off-season soil sterilization procedures.
• Keep Foliage Dry - Water early so foliage will be dry for most of the day. Wet foliage encourages insect and fungal damage. Trim lower leaves so they are not on the ground and keep mulch around the base of all plants.
• Keep Tools Clean - It is a good idea to clean tools before moving from one garden area to another. This will reduce the speed of invading insects. Clean tools with warm soapy water every couple weeks during the growing season.
Diligent application of these clean gardening practices is the first line of defense. Another beneficial practice for natural pest control is the planting of host plants to attract beneficial insects. Beneficial insects are insects which can be attracted to the garden, or bought from catalogues, which prey on harmful insects or their larvae. These are the most common: Nematodes; Ladybugs; Lacewings; Hover-Flies; Praying Mantis; Brachonids; Chalcids; and Ichneumon Wasps. The following are plants that can be helpful in attracting beneficial insects: Carrots; Celery; Parsley; Caraway; Queen Anne's lace; Daisies; Tansy; Yarrow; Goldenrod; Black-Eyed Susans; and Asters. By creating a great host environment some beneficial insects will show up, but to help Mother Nature they are also available from online sources like http://www.gardensalive.com
When beneficial insects are being used to combat pests in the garden, even natural pesticides should be used sparingly and only on infected plants because they will have an adverse impact on the beneficial insects as well as the unwanted ones. Many natural sprays for a variety of pest problems can be made at home and complete lists of various recipes for different problems can be found online. One great source can be found at the following link: http://www.realmama.org/archives-spring-2006/kitchentogarden.php
Although, some homemade sprays work quite well on particular pests, some natural commercial sprays that are now on the market offer perhaps a more comprehensive and convenient solution. One such recent product introduction is Ed Rosenthal’s Zero Tolerance Herbal Pesticide-Fungicide. It is refreshing to find a natural product that actually does what it says and smells great as well. Zero Tolerance is made of pure food ingredients and is bio-degradable and environmentally safe. It is effective at controlling spider mites, aphids, whiteflies, thrips, ants, caterpillars, gnats, root aphids, mealy bugs, and scale, as well as powdery mildew, and gray and white mold. Information on Zero Tolerance can be found at http://www.z-tolerance.com
By applying these natural pest control techniques it is possible to stay one step ahead of the pests and be ready for them when they arrive.
Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is an editor for The Ultimate Sunflower Site http://www.SunflowerOcity.com, a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net/ and an owner of Greenhouse and Garden Supply http://greenhouseandgardensupply.com/.
You can reach Chris at CKline72@Cox.net
The best offense is a good defense and the easiest way to prevent insect damage is to discourage them from coming in to the garden in the first place. The following steps will help:
• Avoid Weak Plants - Find a local planting calendar by doing an internet search on the county in questions name and the words “planting calendar”. Make sure to only plant annuals during their proper planting season. This will help to assure healthy plants that can better combat minor infestation. Remove plants that clearly are doing poorly; they may already be infected. If not, they will attract pests. Pull the weak plants and dispose of them away from the garden area, and do not attempt to compost them.
• Build Healthy, Organic Soil - Natural composting methods, mulching and top-dressing your soil with compost or natural fertilizer is the best way to develop strong, vigorous plants. Get an inexpensive soil testing kit and follow the instructions to amend soil pH and other problems as necessary.
• Use Seaweed and Fish Fertilizer - Seaweed contains trace elements such as iron, zinc, barium, calcium, sulfur and magnesium, and fish emulsion contains primary nutrients which promote healthy development in plants. Seaweed and Fish fertilizer are a great organic alternative and will enhance growth and give plants the strength to better withstand disease.
• Clean Gardening Practices - Clean the garden area of debris and weeds which are breeding places for insects. Buy quality mulch and keep a thin layer on top of the soil. The mulch will discourage weeds, keep plant leaves out of the soil and hold in moisture.
• Interplant and Rotate Crops - Insect pests are often plant specific. When plantings are mixed, pests are less likely to spread throughout a crop. It also helps to plant aromatic flowers like marigolds between vegetables to discourage insects and inhibit their spread. Rotating crops each year is a common method to avoid re-infestation of pests which have over-wintered in the ground. In some cases where soil bound pests are abundant it may be necessary to undertake off-season soil sterilization procedures.
• Keep Foliage Dry - Water early so foliage will be dry for most of the day. Wet foliage encourages insect and fungal damage. Trim lower leaves so they are not on the ground and keep mulch around the base of all plants.
• Keep Tools Clean - It is a good idea to clean tools before moving from one garden area to another. This will reduce the speed of invading insects. Clean tools with warm soapy water every couple weeks during the growing season.
Diligent application of these clean gardening practices is the first line of defense. Another beneficial practice for natural pest control is the planting of host plants to attract beneficial insects. Beneficial insects are insects which can be attracted to the garden, or bought from catalogues, which prey on harmful insects or their larvae. These are the most common: Nematodes; Ladybugs; Lacewings; Hover-Flies; Praying Mantis; Brachonids; Chalcids; and Ichneumon Wasps. The following are plants that can be helpful in attracting beneficial insects: Carrots; Celery; Parsley; Caraway; Queen Anne's lace; Daisies; Tansy; Yarrow; Goldenrod; Black-Eyed Susans; and Asters. By creating a great host environment some beneficial insects will show up, but to help Mother Nature they are also available from online sources like http://www.gardensalive.com
When beneficial insects are being used to combat pests in the garden, even natural pesticides should be used sparingly and only on infected plants because they will have an adverse impact on the beneficial insects as well as the unwanted ones. Many natural sprays for a variety of pest problems can be made at home and complete lists of various recipes for different problems can be found online. One great source can be found at the following link: http://www.realmama.org/archives-spring-2006/kitchentogarden.php
Although, some homemade sprays work quite well on particular pests, some natural commercial sprays that are now on the market offer perhaps a more comprehensive and convenient solution. One such recent product introduction is Ed Rosenthal’s Zero Tolerance Herbal Pesticide-Fungicide. It is refreshing to find a natural product that actually does what it says and smells great as well. Zero Tolerance is made of pure food ingredients and is bio-degradable and environmentally safe. It is effective at controlling spider mites, aphids, whiteflies, thrips, ants, caterpillars, gnats, root aphids, mealy bugs, and scale, as well as powdery mildew, and gray and white mold. Information on Zero Tolerance can be found at http://www.z-tolerance.com
By applying these natural pest control techniques it is possible to stay one step ahead of the pests and be ready for them when they arrive.
Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is an editor for The Ultimate Sunflower Site http://www.SunflowerOcity.com, a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net/ and an owner of Greenhouse and Garden Supply http://greenhouseandgardensupply.com/.
You can reach Chris at CKline72@Cox.net
How to Keep Hydroponics Systems from Smelling Bad
One common complaint about hydroponics is the smell that often results, but with a little care and knowledge, a well run hydroponics system doesn’t need to end up becoming a slimy, smelly mess and odor problems can be easily avoided.
Tip #1 – Keep the system as free of organic materials as possible
Nutrient solution problems are often the cause of bad smell in hydroponics systems.
Bad odors can be both strong and persistent and are a result of bacteria metabolizing proteins which releases amines and sulfur containing organic molecules into solution. Microbial growth in the nutrient itself is a result of having organic materials in the system somewhere (fungi etc need organic matter to feed on). Because of this, it is important to avoid introducing unnecessary organic material into the nutrient solution or growing media. Organic matter may have come from large amounts of old rotting root systems or vegetation from a previous crop or use of organic growing media. Take steps to avoid these problems by using non organic starting medium for starting plants to be added to the system and a non-organic growing medium in the system. Between crops replace or clean the growing medium to remove unwanted organic matter. Use a dark reservoir and keep it covered to keep light and foreign organic matter out.
Tip #2 – Take Steps to Maintain a Microbial Equilibrium in the System
The microbial species which produce the bad smells, slime and other undesirable problems are not to be encouraged, but there are beneficial microbes that can be added and encouraged in the system. First, start with a clean, sterilized water source, add in the nutrients, and then inoculate the nutrient solution with a mixture of beneficial microbes (see product list below). This gives the beneficial microbes a head start and results in a healthy system where any pathogens should be suppressed before plant damage occurs. The following are some well know products that contain beneficial bacteria:
Advanced Nutrients TarantulaTM contains 19 types of organic beneficial bacteria that colonize plant roots and leaves.
Beneficials Bio-Link PlusTM is organic and contains naturally occurring organisms, beneficial Microbes and Fungi that aid in the natural process of plant growth and development.
Dr Hornb’s Piranha PowderTM and Voodoo JuiceTM. Voodoo Juice colonizes the root zone with friendly bacteria. Piranha Powder colonizes the root zone with 26 different beneficial fungi. These include 8 species of Trichoderma (which encourage root growth and protect against fungal pathogens) and 18 species of endo and ecto micorrhizal (which help break down nutrients, aid structure and improve uptake).
Ell-Gro Ag-Bact Water PolishTM consists of thirty varietel aerobic (pro-biotics) bacteria. These pro-biotics are cultures in a registered NATA micro-biological laboratory using a recipe compiles by agricultural scientists.
FlourishTM works symbiotically with native microbes to maximize the sub-surface decomposition of organic plant and animal materials and fertilizers making their rich organic nutrients that plants have grown to love almost immediately available.
Tip #3 – Use Only Nutrients and Additives that are Specifically Designed for Hydroponics
Avoid the use of organic fertilizers which are used and designed for soil based systems. Many of these rely on boosting the population growth of microbes in the soil which in turn break down organic matter, releasing nutrients. Many of the organic compounds are not fully mineralized and putting these soil based organic fertilizers (such as fish emulsions) into a hydroponics system in large quantities can have rapid and unpleasant results.
Tip #4 Keep the Nutrient Solution Well Oxygenated
Start with a clean system and keep the nutrient well oxygenated. This helps swing the equilibrium in favor of the beneficial microbes and provides oxygenated solution to the plant roots. Air pumps are now very inexpensive and should be used with an air stone to add oxygen to the nutrient solution. Plant only healthy seedlings into the system in non organic starting media and remove any sick or stressed plants as soon as they are noticed, making sure to get most of the roots.
Tip #5 Flush the System and Replace the Nutrient Solution Often
It is possible to test nutrient solution often and maintain proper pH and nutrient levels, but it is beneficial and much easier to replace the solution every week or at least every two weeks. Set the system up so a water pipe can be easily opened to drain the system. Plan to drain the system when the reservoir is already low. Drain the solution into a watering can until the pump starts to draw air. Use this nutrient rich water to water soil based plants. Add a gallon or two of pH adjusted water to the system and run the system for five minutes to flush. Drain the system again and then fill with pH adjusted nutrient solution and beneficial microbes.
Tip #6 Consider Ozone Generators and Carbon Filters
Ozone Generators and Carbon Filters are no substitute for the general hydroponics practices discussed in the previous tips and they may very well be unnecessary for odor control if these tips are diligently applied. They may however have benefits beyond odor control that are worth considering. For example, The Black Max Ozone SystemTM claims to purify the water by injecting ozone directly into the holding tank or the nutrient reservoir. In the water, excess ozone constantly breaks down into oxygen which super oxygenates the nutrient solution, promoting rapid healthy root development, plant growth and higher yields. Carbon Filters are probably the best way of removing odors from any area. Charcoal has long been recognized as one of the best vehicles for air filtering and different size filters are available for different sized growing rooms. Carbon Filters are easy to install and operate.
By consistent application of the above tips a Microbial equilibrium can be created in the hydroponics system that will not only have limited undesirable odors, but will consistently produce better harvests.
Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. Chris can be reached at CKline72@Cox.net
Tip #1 – Keep the system as free of organic materials as possible
Nutrient solution problems are often the cause of bad smell in hydroponics systems.
Bad odors can be both strong and persistent and are a result of bacteria metabolizing proteins which releases amines and sulfur containing organic molecules into solution. Microbial growth in the nutrient itself is a result of having organic materials in the system somewhere (fungi etc need organic matter to feed on). Because of this, it is important to avoid introducing unnecessary organic material into the nutrient solution or growing media. Organic matter may have come from large amounts of old rotting root systems or vegetation from a previous crop or use of organic growing media. Take steps to avoid these problems by using non organic starting medium for starting plants to be added to the system and a non-organic growing medium in the system. Between crops replace or clean the growing medium to remove unwanted organic matter. Use a dark reservoir and keep it covered to keep light and foreign organic matter out.
Tip #2 – Take Steps to Maintain a Microbial Equilibrium in the System
The microbial species which produce the bad smells, slime and other undesirable problems are not to be encouraged, but there are beneficial microbes that can be added and encouraged in the system. First, start with a clean, sterilized water source, add in the nutrients, and then inoculate the nutrient solution with a mixture of beneficial microbes (see product list below). This gives the beneficial microbes a head start and results in a healthy system where any pathogens should be suppressed before plant damage occurs. The following are some well know products that contain beneficial bacteria:
Advanced Nutrients TarantulaTM contains 19 types of organic beneficial bacteria that colonize plant roots and leaves.
Beneficials Bio-Link PlusTM is organic and contains naturally occurring organisms, beneficial Microbes and Fungi that aid in the natural process of plant growth and development.
Dr Hornb’s Piranha PowderTM and Voodoo JuiceTM. Voodoo Juice colonizes the root zone with friendly bacteria. Piranha Powder colonizes the root zone with 26 different beneficial fungi. These include 8 species of Trichoderma (which encourage root growth and protect against fungal pathogens) and 18 species of endo and ecto micorrhizal (which help break down nutrients, aid structure and improve uptake).
Ell-Gro Ag-Bact Water PolishTM consists of thirty varietel aerobic (pro-biotics) bacteria. These pro-biotics are cultures in a registered NATA micro-biological laboratory using a recipe compiles by agricultural scientists.
FlourishTM works symbiotically with native microbes to maximize the sub-surface decomposition of organic plant and animal materials and fertilizers making their rich organic nutrients that plants have grown to love almost immediately available.
Tip #3 – Use Only Nutrients and Additives that are Specifically Designed for Hydroponics
Avoid the use of organic fertilizers which are used and designed for soil based systems. Many of these rely on boosting the population growth of microbes in the soil which in turn break down organic matter, releasing nutrients. Many of the organic compounds are not fully mineralized and putting these soil based organic fertilizers (such as fish emulsions) into a hydroponics system in large quantities can have rapid and unpleasant results.
Tip #4 Keep the Nutrient Solution Well Oxygenated
Start with a clean system and keep the nutrient well oxygenated. This helps swing the equilibrium in favor of the beneficial microbes and provides oxygenated solution to the plant roots. Air pumps are now very inexpensive and should be used with an air stone to add oxygen to the nutrient solution. Plant only healthy seedlings into the system in non organic starting media and remove any sick or stressed plants as soon as they are noticed, making sure to get most of the roots.
Tip #5 Flush the System and Replace the Nutrient Solution Often
It is possible to test nutrient solution often and maintain proper pH and nutrient levels, but it is beneficial and much easier to replace the solution every week or at least every two weeks. Set the system up so a water pipe can be easily opened to drain the system. Plan to drain the system when the reservoir is already low. Drain the solution into a watering can until the pump starts to draw air. Use this nutrient rich water to water soil based plants. Add a gallon or two of pH adjusted water to the system and run the system for five minutes to flush. Drain the system again and then fill with pH adjusted nutrient solution and beneficial microbes.
Tip #6 Consider Ozone Generators and Carbon Filters
Ozone Generators and Carbon Filters are no substitute for the general hydroponics practices discussed in the previous tips and they may very well be unnecessary for odor control if these tips are diligently applied. They may however have benefits beyond odor control that are worth considering. For example, The Black Max Ozone SystemTM claims to purify the water by injecting ozone directly into the holding tank or the nutrient reservoir. In the water, excess ozone constantly breaks down into oxygen which super oxygenates the nutrient solution, promoting rapid healthy root development, plant growth and higher yields. Carbon Filters are probably the best way of removing odors from any area. Charcoal has long been recognized as one of the best vehicles for air filtering and different size filters are available for different sized growing rooms. Carbon Filters are easy to install and operate.
By consistent application of the above tips a Microbial equilibrium can be created in the hydroponics system that will not only have limited undesirable odors, but will consistently produce better harvests.
Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. Chris can be reached at CKline72@Cox.net
How to Build a Small Drip Hydroponics System
Introduction
This article will show you how to easily build and maintain a small drip hydroponics system that can be used to grow herbs, tomatoes, peppers or a combination of each.
Things You Need
Inexpensive plastic pots, one 12 inch, one 10 and one 8 inch.
Two-Three plastic 14 inch pot saucers
Submersible hydroponics water pump (approximately 160GPS)
Tubing to fit the pump (approximately 3 feet) and one T-connector
Expanded clay growing medium to fill two smaller pots
Small air pump with two feet of tubing and air stone
100% silicone sealer (small tube)
Hydroponics grow and bloom nutrients solutions
pH test kit and pH down (possibly pH up depending on home water chemistry)
Tools
Drill with 1/8th and 3/4th bits
Utility knife
Step 1
Seal the hole in the bottom of the largest pot that will serve as the system reservoir. To do this, turn the pot upside down and use 100% silicone sealer to glue a small piece of plastic over the hole. Cut the plastic piece about twice as large as the hole. Any flat thin plastic will do. One easy to find source is to cut these out of clear plastic plant saucers. Next, turn the pot back over and fill the hole inside completely with silicone and even a little extra for a good seal. This should dry 6-8 hours before water is added to the system.
Step 2
Install the pumps and feed tube. Connect the tubing to the submersible hydroponics pump. Generally the tubing will fit tight on the pump spout and a hose clamp is not necessary, but if needed, use a hose clamp to make sure the feed tube stays attached to the pump. Connect the air tube to the air stone. Set the air stone with a rock on top to keep it down and the submersible pump in the bottom of the reservoir.
Step 3
Use 2-3 14 inch saucers for the reservoir lid because one is not strong enough to hold the weight from the growing pots. Set the saucers on top of one another and drill a hole two inches in from the back just large enough to accommodate the feed tube and another just large enough to provide passage for the submersible pump cord and air line. Use a utility knife to cut an opening in the front of the bottom saucer 3x4 inches. This will allow for viewing the reservoir level and adding nutrient solution. Cut a hole ¼ inch smaller all around for the top saucer. Glue the pieces that were cut out of each saucer together and this may be used to cover the opening when not needed. Insert the feed tube back hole and the air tube and submersible pump cord through the back hole. Cover the reservoir pot with the saucers as a lid.
Step 4
The pots should have drain holes in them already. If not, drill drainage holes large enough to allow water to drain through, but smaller than the size of the expanded clay growing medium in both the 8 and 10 inch pots. Drill a hole in the back large enough to accommodate the feed tube, thread the tube through, and set the 10 inch pot on top of the reservoir lid.
Step 5
Fill the 10 inch pot with expanded clay growing medium to within ½ inch from the top. Thread the feed tube through the hole in the back of the 8 inch pot and set the pot on top of the growing medium in the 10 inch pot. Cut the feed tube at the top of the top pot. Hold the feed tube by one side of the pot and fill the pot with growing medium to a couple inches below the top being careful not to allow any medium to fall into the feed tube.
Step 6
Cut a piece of the water tubing to make a 6 inch circle and connect the ends together with the T connector. Lay this circular hose on a flat surface with the T-connector opening facing up. Drill 1/8th inch holes every half inch around the circle. Connect the T-connector to the feed tube in the top pot and fill the pot the rest of the way so that the drip circle sits on top with medium almost covering.
Step 7
Use a clean bucket or other container to mix nutrient solution. If possible use RO filtered water or some other source of filtered water. Check the pH of the water and adjust accordingly using pH up or down to a level of 6.5. Most often pH will need to be lowered. Ad hydroponics grow formula to the water per the manufactures directions. Fill the reservoir with nutrient solution and plug in both the air and water pumps.
Planting
Seeds can be started in small peat pots, peat pellets, or various forms of soil-less seed starting cubes or plugs. The small plants can then be transferred to the unit by burying them with their seed starting medium in the expanded clay medium. With larger plants like tomatoes or peppers this system works well with one in the top growing pot and 2-3 in the lower one. For tomatoes three foot plastic poles can be inserted in the growing pot on either side of each plant for staking. The system can be placed on a covered patio in a sunny location or indoors if grow lights are used.
Maintenance
Start with a full reservoir. When the solution is down to just above the pump, add a gallon of pH adjusted water to the reservoir and run the system for five minutes. Unplug the water pump and disconnect one side of the drip tube from the T-connector and place the end in a large bucket. Plug the pump back in and drain the system until the pump just starts to suck air. Unplug the pump immediately and do not let the pump suck air. Use this water to water soil based plants. Fill the reservoir back to the top with pH adjusted nutrient solution. Use a grow solution until plants begin to flower and then switch to a bloom solution. Reconnect the drip tube to the T-connector and plug the pump back in. Every three months, or sooner if needed, change the air stone and clean the intake components of the submersible pump. After each growing season it is a good idea to rinse the growing medium and spread it out to air dry.
Building a small hydroponics system is a rewarding and productive experience and they certainly add beauty to any garden or indoor setting.
This article will show you how to easily build and maintain a small drip hydroponics system that can be used to grow herbs, tomatoes, peppers or a combination of each.
Things You Need
Inexpensive plastic pots, one 12 inch, one 10 and one 8 inch.
Two-Three plastic 14 inch pot saucers
Submersible hydroponics water pump (approximately 160GPS)
Tubing to fit the pump (approximately 3 feet) and one T-connector
Expanded clay growing medium to fill two smaller pots
Small air pump with two feet of tubing and air stone
100% silicone sealer (small tube)
Hydroponics grow and bloom nutrients solutions
pH test kit and pH down (possibly pH up depending on home water chemistry)
Tools
Drill with 1/8th and 3/4th bits
Utility knife
Step 1
Seal the hole in the bottom of the largest pot that will serve as the system reservoir. To do this, turn the pot upside down and use 100% silicone sealer to glue a small piece of plastic over the hole. Cut the plastic piece about twice as large as the hole. Any flat thin plastic will do. One easy to find source is to cut these out of clear plastic plant saucers. Next, turn the pot back over and fill the hole inside completely with silicone and even a little extra for a good seal. This should dry 6-8 hours before water is added to the system.
Step 2
Install the pumps and feed tube. Connect the tubing to the submersible hydroponics pump. Generally the tubing will fit tight on the pump spout and a hose clamp is not necessary, but if needed, use a hose clamp to make sure the feed tube stays attached to the pump. Connect the air tube to the air stone. Set the air stone with a rock on top to keep it down and the submersible pump in the bottom of the reservoir.
Step 3
Use 2-3 14 inch saucers for the reservoir lid because one is not strong enough to hold the weight from the growing pots. Set the saucers on top of one another and drill a hole two inches in from the back just large enough to accommodate the feed tube and another just large enough to provide passage for the submersible pump cord and air line. Use a utility knife to cut an opening in the front of the bottom saucer 3x4 inches. This will allow for viewing the reservoir level and adding nutrient solution. Cut a hole ¼ inch smaller all around for the top saucer. Glue the pieces that were cut out of each saucer together and this may be used to cover the opening when not needed. Insert the feed tube back hole and the air tube and submersible pump cord through the back hole. Cover the reservoir pot with the saucers as a lid.
Step 4
The pots should have drain holes in them already. If not, drill drainage holes large enough to allow water to drain through, but smaller than the size of the expanded clay growing medium in both the 8 and 10 inch pots. Drill a hole in the back large enough to accommodate the feed tube, thread the tube through, and set the 10 inch pot on top of the reservoir lid.
Step 5
Fill the 10 inch pot with expanded clay growing medium to within ½ inch from the top. Thread the feed tube through the hole in the back of the 8 inch pot and set the pot on top of the growing medium in the 10 inch pot. Cut the feed tube at the top of the top pot. Hold the feed tube by one side of the pot and fill the pot with growing medium to a couple inches below the top being careful not to allow any medium to fall into the feed tube.
Step 6
Cut a piece of the water tubing to make a 6 inch circle and connect the ends together with the T connector. Lay this circular hose on a flat surface with the T-connector opening facing up. Drill 1/8th inch holes every half inch around the circle. Connect the T-connector to the feed tube in the top pot and fill the pot the rest of the way so that the drip circle sits on top with medium almost covering.
Step 7
Use a clean bucket or other container to mix nutrient solution. If possible use RO filtered water or some other source of filtered water. Check the pH of the water and adjust accordingly using pH up or down to a level of 6.5. Most often pH will need to be lowered. Ad hydroponics grow formula to the water per the manufactures directions. Fill the reservoir with nutrient solution and plug in both the air and water pumps.
Planting
Seeds can be started in small peat pots, peat pellets, or various forms of soil-less seed starting cubes or plugs. The small plants can then be transferred to the unit by burying them with their seed starting medium in the expanded clay medium. With larger plants like tomatoes or peppers this system works well with one in the top growing pot and 2-3 in the lower one. For tomatoes three foot plastic poles can be inserted in the growing pot on either side of each plant for staking. The system can be placed on a covered patio in a sunny location or indoors if grow lights are used.
Maintenance
Start with a full reservoir. When the solution is down to just above the pump, add a gallon of pH adjusted water to the reservoir and run the system for five minutes. Unplug the water pump and disconnect one side of the drip tube from the T-connector and place the end in a large bucket. Plug the pump back in and drain the system until the pump just starts to suck air. Unplug the pump immediately and do not let the pump suck air. Use this water to water soil based plants. Fill the reservoir back to the top with pH adjusted nutrient solution. Use a grow solution until plants begin to flower and then switch to a bloom solution. Reconnect the drip tube to the T-connector and plug the pump back in. Every three months, or sooner if needed, change the air stone and clean the intake components of the submersible pump. After each growing season it is a good idea to rinse the growing medium and spread it out to air dry.
Building a small hydroponics system is a rewarding and productive experience and they certainly add beauty to any garden or indoor setting.
How to Build a Small Container Fountain
Introduction
This article will show you how to easily build a beautiful indoor/outdoor fountain using glazed pottery. This can make a nice patio or greenhouse feature or even be used as a decorative room humidifier that will not get clogged like traditional humidifiers.
Things You Need
Three or four glazed ceramic pots of graduating size
Plastic pots or containers slightly smaller than the large and second largest pot
Submersible water pump (approximately 150GPS)
Tubing to fit the pump
100% silicone (small tube)
1 small plastic saucer
Water seal to seal inside the pots if they are not glazed on the inside
Small decorative river rocks for the top pot
Step 1
Use spray on water seal to seal the inside of the pots. Thompson’s makes a good multi surface spray on water seal that can be purchased at most hardware stores. The pots are generally already semi-waterproof, but this helps to extend their life. If they are not glazed on the inside paint them with Dry Lock.
Step 2
Seal the hole in the bottom of the largest pot that will serve as the fountain reservoir. To do this, turn the pot upside down and use 100% silicone sealer to glue a small piece of plastic over the hole. Cut the plastic piece about twice as large as the hole. Any flat thin plastic will do. One easy to find source is to cut these out of clear plastic plant saucers. Next, turn the pot back over and fill the hole inside completely with silicone and even a little extra for a good seal. This should dry 6-8 hours before water is added to the fountain.
Step 3
Install the pump and feed tube. Cut a piece of tubing long enough to reach the top of the fountain. Make it a little long. The extra can always be cut after the fountain is fully assembled. Generally the tubing will fit tight on the pump spout and a hose clamp is not necessary, but if needed, use a hose clamp to make sure the feed tube stays attached to the pump.
Step 4
Prepare plastic riser pots. These can be any plastic container that is the right size and strong enough to hold the pots above. Two of these will be needed, one that is one inch shorter then the largest pot and one that is one inch shorter than the second largest pot. Each will need to be the proper diameter to fit inside the corresponding pot. A good place to find inexpensive plastic containers for this is the local dollar store. Once suitable containers are located, drill a hole in the bottom of each that is just large enough for the feed tube to pass through. Use the same bit to drill two or three holes in the side of each container for water to pass through. Cut a small notch in the top of the larger container for the pump electrical wire to pass through.
Step 5
To assemble the fountain, first place the pump in the bottom of the largest pot. Then turn the larger riser container upside down and thread the feed tube up through the hole in the bottom so the container slides down and covers the pump. Next, place the second largest pot on top of the first riser container, threading the feed tube up through the hole in the bottom of the pot. If the hole in the pot is much larger than the tubing, use silicone to caulk the hole around the tubing. This will ensure that most of the water flows over the pots rim, rather than down through the bottom hole. Follow this same procedure with the second riser container and the final top pot.
Step 6
Cut the feed tube off about one inch from the top of the top pot and fill the pot with decorative rocks up to the top of the feed tube. Depending on the GPH of the pump and the height of the fountain the feed tube may need to be cut more than one inch from the top of the top pot to keep water from spraying too far. It may also be necessary to hold a hand over the feed tube opening when the pump is first turned on to muffle the water coming out of the feed tube until the water can fill to the top of the pot and muffle the flow. With a fountain that is around two feet high and a 160gph pump, cutting the feed tube 1 inch below the top will generally create a nice bubbling effect and sound without excess splashing.
Building a fountain is a rewarding experience and they certainly add beauty to any garden or indoor setting.
This article will show you how to easily build a beautiful indoor/outdoor fountain using glazed pottery. This can make a nice patio or greenhouse feature or even be used as a decorative room humidifier that will not get clogged like traditional humidifiers.
Things You Need
Three or four glazed ceramic pots of graduating size
Plastic pots or containers slightly smaller than the large and second largest pot
Submersible water pump (approximately 150GPS)
Tubing to fit the pump
100% silicone (small tube)
1 small plastic saucer
Water seal to seal inside the pots if they are not glazed on the inside
Small decorative river rocks for the top pot
Step 1
Use spray on water seal to seal the inside of the pots. Thompson’s makes a good multi surface spray on water seal that can be purchased at most hardware stores. The pots are generally already semi-waterproof, but this helps to extend their life. If they are not glazed on the inside paint them with Dry Lock.
Step 2
Seal the hole in the bottom of the largest pot that will serve as the fountain reservoir. To do this, turn the pot upside down and use 100% silicone sealer to glue a small piece of plastic over the hole. Cut the plastic piece about twice as large as the hole. Any flat thin plastic will do. One easy to find source is to cut these out of clear plastic plant saucers. Next, turn the pot back over and fill the hole inside completely with silicone and even a little extra for a good seal. This should dry 6-8 hours before water is added to the fountain.
Step 3
Install the pump and feed tube. Cut a piece of tubing long enough to reach the top of the fountain. Make it a little long. The extra can always be cut after the fountain is fully assembled. Generally the tubing will fit tight on the pump spout and a hose clamp is not necessary, but if needed, use a hose clamp to make sure the feed tube stays attached to the pump.
Step 4
Prepare plastic riser pots. These can be any plastic container that is the right size and strong enough to hold the pots above. Two of these will be needed, one that is one inch shorter then the largest pot and one that is one inch shorter than the second largest pot. Each will need to be the proper diameter to fit inside the corresponding pot. A good place to find inexpensive plastic containers for this is the local dollar store. Once suitable containers are located, drill a hole in the bottom of each that is just large enough for the feed tube to pass through. Use the same bit to drill two or three holes in the side of each container for water to pass through. Cut a small notch in the top of the larger container for the pump electrical wire to pass through.
Step 5
To assemble the fountain, first place the pump in the bottom of the largest pot. Then turn the larger riser container upside down and thread the feed tube up through the hole in the bottom so the container slides down and covers the pump. Next, place the second largest pot on top of the first riser container, threading the feed tube up through the hole in the bottom of the pot. If the hole in the pot is much larger than the tubing, use silicone to caulk the hole around the tubing. This will ensure that most of the water flows over the pots rim, rather than down through the bottom hole. Follow this same procedure with the second riser container and the final top pot.
Step 6
Cut the feed tube off about one inch from the top of the top pot and fill the pot with decorative rocks up to the top of the feed tube. Depending on the GPH of the pump and the height of the fountain the feed tube may need to be cut more than one inch from the top of the top pot to keep water from spraying too far. It may also be necessary to hold a hand over the feed tube opening when the pump is first turned on to muffle the water coming out of the feed tube until the water can fill to the top of the pot and muffle the flow. With a fountain that is around two feet high and a 160gph pump, cutting the feed tube 1 inch below the top will generally create a nice bubbling effect and sound without excess splashing.
Building a fountain is a rewarding experience and they certainly add beauty to any garden or indoor setting.
How to Assess and Corect Soil pH
The Hydroponic Gardening Practice that can Vastly Improve Soil Based Gardens
Many times Hydroponic gardeners have results that seem extra ordinary; but, with proper attention to detail, these same results can be had by soil based gardners as well. Successful hydroponics depends first and formost on monitoring the pH of the nutrient solution, yet soil based gardners often neglect this critical factor with their chosen growing medium.
To more specifically define an acidic or basic substance, scientists devised a numerical scale, called a pH scale, to categorize substances as an acid or base. Numerically, the scale is from 0 to 14, with 7 being the midpoint. Any solution or substance having a pH value of less than 7 is known as an acid and above 7 is considered a base. Seven is considered neutral. A special test paper can be used to numerically measure pH. Depending on the acidic or basic nature of the test solution, the paper turns a specific color which can be matched to a standard color chart correlated with pH values. A pH meter can also be used to measure the pH of a solution or substance like soil. The meter consists of a probe, which is placed in the solution and the meter displays a digital readout of the pH.
0 ——————7——————14
ACID———NEUTRAL———BASE
The pH value of soil and water is a critical variable for all gardeners to consider. Particular crops and plants require a specific pH to thrive and produce high yields. Whether it is growing tomatoes in a small garden or corn over many hundreds of acres, knowing and maintaining the correct soil pH is a must. A pH of 6.5 is found to be the most favorable for the availability of all plant nutrients and is the pH to which most soils and soil based composts are adjusted. Nitrifying bacteria work best above pH 6. Therefore nitrogen is more available. Vegetables vary to some extent in their requirements, but most garden crops will do well with a soil pH of 6.2 to 6.8. This is a little below neutral, or slightly acidic. If soil pH is too high or low, poor crop growth will result, largely due to the effects pH has on the availability of nutrients to plants.
It may not be possible to water with pH adjusted water, but it is still helpful to test the water source to know which way it is moving the ph of the soil. For container plants that are watered by hand it is possible to easily correct the pH of the water using the same pH-up or pH-down products used in hydroponics or aquaculture. These can be purchased at fish stores or hydroponics suppliers.
Water pH test kits can be purchased for less than $5 and soil test kits that use paper strips can be purchased for around $5. pH meters that are inserted into moist soil to test pH can be purchased for $12 and up. The good news is that most of these kits come with charts showing the optimum pH for various garden plants and if they don’t come with the kit, such charts can be found online.
Amendments to change pH levels
Lime and sulfur are common amendments to change soil pH. Dolomite limestone (calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate) add calcium and magnesium and increases the pH. Agricultural (elemental) sulfur is used to acidify alkaline soil. The amount to add depends on the current and the desired pHs. Fortunately, most horticultural lime and sulfur products provide application charts showing how much is needed to move the PH from the tested level to the desired level for a particular size garden or planting container.
By monitoring and modifying soil pH, as needed, the soil based gardener will take a huge step towards matching the strengths of the controlled hydroponics environment. Plants grown in soil or media with the proper pH can readily use the nutrients available to them resulting in spectacular gardens.
Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is an editor for The Ultimate Sunflower Site http://www.SunflowerOcity.com, a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net/ and an owner of Greenhouse and Garden Supply http://greenhouseandgardensupply.com/.
You can reach Chris at CKline72@Cox.net
Many times Hydroponic gardeners have results that seem extra ordinary; but, with proper attention to detail, these same results can be had by soil based gardners as well. Successful hydroponics depends first and formost on monitoring the pH of the nutrient solution, yet soil based gardners often neglect this critical factor with their chosen growing medium.
To more specifically define an acidic or basic substance, scientists devised a numerical scale, called a pH scale, to categorize substances as an acid or base. Numerically, the scale is from 0 to 14, with 7 being the midpoint. Any solution or substance having a pH value of less than 7 is known as an acid and above 7 is considered a base. Seven is considered neutral. A special test paper can be used to numerically measure pH. Depending on the acidic or basic nature of the test solution, the paper turns a specific color which can be matched to a standard color chart correlated with pH values. A pH meter can also be used to measure the pH of a solution or substance like soil. The meter consists of a probe, which is placed in the solution and the meter displays a digital readout of the pH.
0 ——————7——————14
ACID———NEUTRAL———BASE
The pH value of soil and water is a critical variable for all gardeners to consider. Particular crops and plants require a specific pH to thrive and produce high yields. Whether it is growing tomatoes in a small garden or corn over many hundreds of acres, knowing and maintaining the correct soil pH is a must. A pH of 6.5 is found to be the most favorable for the availability of all plant nutrients and is the pH to which most soils and soil based composts are adjusted. Nitrifying bacteria work best above pH 6. Therefore nitrogen is more available. Vegetables vary to some extent in their requirements, but most garden crops will do well with a soil pH of 6.2 to 6.8. This is a little below neutral, or slightly acidic. If soil pH is too high or low, poor crop growth will result, largely due to the effects pH has on the availability of nutrients to plants.
It may not be possible to water with pH adjusted water, but it is still helpful to test the water source to know which way it is moving the ph of the soil. For container plants that are watered by hand it is possible to easily correct the pH of the water using the same pH-up or pH-down products used in hydroponics or aquaculture. These can be purchased at fish stores or hydroponics suppliers.
Water pH test kits can be purchased for less than $5 and soil test kits that use paper strips can be purchased for around $5. pH meters that are inserted into moist soil to test pH can be purchased for $12 and up. The good news is that most of these kits come with charts showing the optimum pH for various garden plants and if they don’t come with the kit, such charts can be found online.
Amendments to change pH levels
Lime and sulfur are common amendments to change soil pH. Dolomite limestone (calcium carbonate and magnesium carbonate) add calcium and magnesium and increases the pH. Agricultural (elemental) sulfur is used to acidify alkaline soil. The amount to add depends on the current and the desired pHs. Fortunately, most horticultural lime and sulfur products provide application charts showing how much is needed to move the PH from the tested level to the desired level for a particular size garden or planting container.
By monitoring and modifying soil pH, as needed, the soil based gardener will take a huge step towards matching the strengths of the controlled hydroponics environment. Plants grown in soil or media with the proper pH can readily use the nutrients available to them resulting in spectacular gardens.
Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is an editor for The Ultimate Sunflower Site http://www.SunflowerOcity.com, a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net/ and an owner of Greenhouse and Garden Supply http://greenhouseandgardensupply.com/.
You can reach Chris at CKline72@Cox.net
Eight Tools Every Indoor Gardner Needs and Wants
#1 Floral Scissors
Deluxe Chinese Scissors 5.95
For the indoor gardener a good pair of floral scissors takes the place of pruning sheers and is indispensable. These are very nice Chinese scissors with decorative gold colored handles. Extremely sharp and highly versatile. Excellent for pruning bonsai and other indoor plants. Super versatile and easy to handle, they can accurately cut though the thinnest paper as well as light sheet metal and aluminum and still hold an edge. Easy to handle and available in three convenient sizes. Small scissors are 5 inches in overall length while the medium scissors are 6 inches in overall length.
Available online at homeharvest.com
Floral Scissors $16.40
These six inch multi-purpose scissors are perfect for snipping flowers, food, cloth, string and more! Very strong stainless steel alloy tips with .05mm serrated teeth for tough jobs. Comfortable, soft handles assure less fatigue with prolonged use. Sharp blades cut with precision.
Available online at greenhousecatalog.com
Universal Garden Scissors $24.95
Rugged and generously-sized, these all purpose shears cut flowers, twine, fabric, cardboard, rubber mulch and even thin wire, using the built-in wire cutter. Comfortable, non-slip grip and 3" long stainless steel blades.
Available online at gardeners.com
#2 Quality Garden Potting Bench
Gardner’s Choice Wood Bench $169.99
Indoor gardeners need a space of their own for planting and potting. This Sturdy wood potting bench has a removable table top for easy cleaning and storage, and is made of durable, solid fir. The top and bottom shelves provide organizing space. Best of all, only partial, minimal assembly is required.
Available online at pottingbenches.com
Garden Potting Bench $84.95
This green-painted steel frame workbench fits perfectly in the back a greenhouse for added work surface. Decorative wrought iron trim and varnished wood bench make this a beautiful piece. Lower wire shelf for storing pots, compost, tools, etc. Easy to assemble. 39"H x 21"D x 36"W.
Available online at greenhousecatalog.com
Deluxe Potting Bench $105
The high-gloss hardwood and scrolled-metal design of this 3-tiered table make it an appealing accessory inside or in a greenhouse. The bench features a large, slatted work surface as well as handy storage areas above and below. The triple-urethane wood finish and powder-coated steel framework ensure extended life. Assembles in minutes using only a Phillips screwdriver. Price includes standard ground shipping to any U.S. address except Alaska and Hawaii.
Available online from greenhousemegastore.com
#3 Small But Powerful Sprayers
Globe Misting Sprayer $12
This unique small sprayer is attractive and functional. The Globe misting sprayers hold .4 gallon and are available in three vibrant colors. Pump air into the chamber then squeeze button with your thumb to create a fine mist that orchids and other plants love. Great for indoor or outdoor use.
Available online at greenhousemegastore.com
Power Sprayer (Set of Two) $21.95
This great battery powered sprayer makes foliar feeding of hungry plants fast and easy. Simply squeeze the trigger and the battery operated pump does the work for you. Shoots a stream or sprays from the no-drip nozzle. Set of 2.
Available online at greenhousecatalog.com
Hand Held Sprayer $9.95
Easy to use pump handle and special "Lock In" spray trigger function makes covering your garden trouble-free. No more need to guess when its time to fill up. The opaque tank allows you to see your spray level, so you know when to refill, plus the tank holds up to 50 fluid ounces, resulting in less time refilling and more time spraying! The plastic container and brass nozzle makes clean up simple and fast after the jobs all done.
Available online at gardensalive.com
#4 Great Indoor Hand Tool Sets
Patio Garden Tool Set $42
This patio garden set includes a canvas bag, a handy set of small garden tools manufactured using quality wood and stainless steel and enhanced by appealing design details such as ribbon hanging loops and soft grip handles. Just the thing for green thumbs looking to tend to patio pots and indoor plants. Also contains bypass secateurs, thinning scissors with soft grip handles. As an added bonus this set comes with a nice chrome mist sprayer.
Available online at greenhousemegastore.com
Radius Ergonomic Garden Tool Package $46.62 Individual price $12.95
Just because the indoor gardener does not need large digging tools does not mean that soil working tools are not needed and appreciated. This set of high quality tools comes in handy for indoor cultivating and planting needs. The Non-slip comfort grip of Radius garden tools makes gardening feel good. Blades are made of a super lightweight aluminum/magnesium alloy to maximize power and comfort and minimize hand and wrist stress. The Weeder, Trowel, and Bulb Trowel all have sharp serrated blades that easily slide through compacted earth. The blade hook pulls roots or cuts stems. A curved fulcrum pops out deep, tough weeds and the seed reservoir and planting channel guide small seeds exactly where needed. Especially recommended for anyone with arthritis or compromised hand strength.
Available online at greenhousecatalog.com
Stainless Hand Tool Set $44.95
Stainless steel blades and non-slip, ergonomic handles make these well-crafted tools a pleasure to use. Set includes trowel, transplanter, cultivator, soil scoop and floral snips in a convenient plastic caddy.
Available online at gardeners.com
#5 Soil Test Kit
Rapitest® Soil Test Kit 19.95
This kit tests for pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium levels. For gardeners already familiar with soil testing, you'll appreciate the unique specially designed "color comparator" and capsule system, that make quick work of testing. For those of you new to soil testing, you'll appreciate this easy, fast and fun way to achieve better growing results from your gardening efforts. All you do is put a sample of soil into the comparator, pour in powder from capsule, add water, shake and watch the color develop. Fast, easy and it only takes a few minutes! Included in this kit are: 40 tests, 10 each for pH; Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K); 4 color comparator; complete instructions for adjusting pH; a pH preference list for over 400 plants and fertilization guidelines for Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K).
Available online at homeharvest.com
Delux Soil Test Kit $19.95
This kit can be used for accurate pH readings as well as the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium/potash contents of garden soil. Contains enough materials for approx. 10 tests each. Liquid testing is accurate and simple. Complete easy-to-follow instructions.
Available online at greenhousecatalog.com
Lamotte Garden Soil Test Kit 54.95
This kit is a little more extensive than most and provides accurate analysis for Ph, and the 3 basic macronutrients. Graduated plastic test tubes for measurement of the soil sample and reagent solutions. All results are compared to standards on laminated color charts. Two booklets, "A Study of Soil Science" and the "LaMotte Soil Handbook", provide in-depth background information and important data for interpretation of soil tests. The "LaMotte Soil Handbook" also features a pH preference guide for over 600 plants, trees and shrubs.
Available online at biconet.com
#6 Hand and Skin Care for Gardners
Gardners Hand Care Kit $24.95
The perfect combination of products to pamper and protect the gardener! Repair skin, relieve tired muscles and joints, and eliminate germs with soothing all-natural products! A black mesh, cinch pouch holds 6 travel-size products: all-natural sanitizer with aloe and vitamin E (2 oz), deet-free herbal insect repellent (2 oz), muscle-soothing remedy rub (1 oz), healing aloe gel skin repair (2 oz), SPF 30 sport sunblock (1 oz). Makes a great gift!
Available online at greenhousecatalog.com
Gardners Skin Care Gift Bag $29.95
Support the gardeners in your life - and all the herbs, fruits, vegetables and flowers they bring to your life - by taking care of their hands and skin! Select one of our beautiful gift bags, and fill it up by choosing two wrapped bars of our moisturizing Gardener's Hand Repair soaps as well as a Shea Butter Lip Balm flavor! We'll add the 2 ounce size of our Gardener's Salve filled with moisturizing oils, butters and medicinal herbs, and a roll-on container of our Bug-Me-No-More natural insect repellent!
Available online at soapshed.com
Allison’s Garden Hand Care Kit $14.95
Kit includes one bar of all natural vegetable-based pumice soap, one bristle brush with a hardwood handle and one 4.41 oz jar of hand crème.
Available online at alisonsgarden.com
#7 Gardening Apron
Florian Garden Apron $24.95
Even indoor gardeners will appreciate having a tool apron when getting down to serious gardening work. This durable Gardener's twill apron will keep your clothes clean and comes with a full width 8" deep pouch with 2 compartments. The gardening apron pockets are perfect for keeping tools at hand.
Available online at floriantools.com
Sacka-Da-Weeda Garden Apron $49.95
The apron makes work easier and relieves the neck fatigue that often occurs with most aprons. The three large pockets allow garden tools, gloves, phones and other needed work tools to be carried all over the garden, the main pouch saves hours of work by allowing debris to be stored in the pouch and dumped directly into wheelbarrows, eliminating the need to create and remove piles of debris. No more raking, less strain and more work in less time.
Available online at yardiac.com
Little Grean Belt $7.95
This easy to wear belt organizer has a one size fits all waistband that fits comfortably around the hips. The durable apron has three built in pockets and one cloth band that work great for carrying many garden tools, and will even fit a portable phone!
Available online at greenhousecatalog.com
#8 Gardening Work Chair
Garden Rocker 34.95
This garden work chair ROCKS! Whether gardening indoor or out it is so helpful to have a low seat around that helps you get down at the planting level. This garden seat reduces strain and pressure on knees and back and adjusts to four heights (from 11" to 14") Best of all curved base moves with the gardener in any direction, allowing one to move lower and closer to one’s work. The base also provides a convenient tool storage area. An optional soft, non-slip cushion top is available for added comfort. It features four pockets to store tools or a favorite beverage. 5lbs. 16” wide.
Available online at greenhousecatalog.com
Tractor Scoot 69.95
With this back-saving scoot, you can sit while you garden or greenhouse, and steer around garden beds or containers without getting up. The comfortable tractor-style seat is adjustable in height, and swivels a full 360 degrees to let you harvest beans, weed the flowerbed or wash the car.
Available online at gardeners.com
Comfort Garden Kneeler 19.98
By combining 2" thick cushioned kneeler pads with a contoured seat, this gardening accessory helps reduce strain on your knees and back. For added comfort the seat rocks back and forth. Additionally, it folds flat for storage and has a convenient built-in handle for easy carrying. It also holds up to 250 pounds, and it has an adjustable seat height.
Available online at firststreetonline.com
These eight items are a must for the serious indoor gardener and will vastly improve the gardening experience as well as the results.
Deluxe Chinese Scissors 5.95
For the indoor gardener a good pair of floral scissors takes the place of pruning sheers and is indispensable. These are very nice Chinese scissors with decorative gold colored handles. Extremely sharp and highly versatile. Excellent for pruning bonsai and other indoor plants. Super versatile and easy to handle, they can accurately cut though the thinnest paper as well as light sheet metal and aluminum and still hold an edge. Easy to handle and available in three convenient sizes. Small scissors are 5 inches in overall length while the medium scissors are 6 inches in overall length.
Available online at homeharvest.com
Floral Scissors $16.40
These six inch multi-purpose scissors are perfect for snipping flowers, food, cloth, string and more! Very strong stainless steel alloy tips with .05mm serrated teeth for tough jobs. Comfortable, soft handles assure less fatigue with prolonged use. Sharp blades cut with precision.
Available online at greenhousecatalog.com
Universal Garden Scissors $24.95
Rugged and generously-sized, these all purpose shears cut flowers, twine, fabric, cardboard, rubber mulch and even thin wire, using the built-in wire cutter. Comfortable, non-slip grip and 3" long stainless steel blades.
Available online at gardeners.com
#2 Quality Garden Potting Bench
Gardner’s Choice Wood Bench $169.99
Indoor gardeners need a space of their own for planting and potting. This Sturdy wood potting bench has a removable table top for easy cleaning and storage, and is made of durable, solid fir. The top and bottom shelves provide organizing space. Best of all, only partial, minimal assembly is required.
Available online at pottingbenches.com
Garden Potting Bench $84.95
This green-painted steel frame workbench fits perfectly in the back a greenhouse for added work surface. Decorative wrought iron trim and varnished wood bench make this a beautiful piece. Lower wire shelf for storing pots, compost, tools, etc. Easy to assemble. 39"H x 21"D x 36"W.
Available online at greenhousecatalog.com
Deluxe Potting Bench $105
The high-gloss hardwood and scrolled-metal design of this 3-tiered table make it an appealing accessory inside or in a greenhouse. The bench features a large, slatted work surface as well as handy storage areas above and below. The triple-urethane wood finish and powder-coated steel framework ensure extended life. Assembles in minutes using only a Phillips screwdriver. Price includes standard ground shipping to any U.S. address except Alaska and Hawaii.
Available online from greenhousemegastore.com
#3 Small But Powerful Sprayers
Globe Misting Sprayer $12
This unique small sprayer is attractive and functional. The Globe misting sprayers hold .4 gallon and are available in three vibrant colors. Pump air into the chamber then squeeze button with your thumb to create a fine mist that orchids and other plants love. Great for indoor or outdoor use.
Available online at greenhousemegastore.com
Power Sprayer (Set of Two) $21.95
This great battery powered sprayer makes foliar feeding of hungry plants fast and easy. Simply squeeze the trigger and the battery operated pump does the work for you. Shoots a stream or sprays from the no-drip nozzle. Set of 2.
Available online at greenhousecatalog.com
Hand Held Sprayer $9.95
Easy to use pump handle and special "Lock In" spray trigger function makes covering your garden trouble-free. No more need to guess when its time to fill up. The opaque tank allows you to see your spray level, so you know when to refill, plus the tank holds up to 50 fluid ounces, resulting in less time refilling and more time spraying! The plastic container and brass nozzle makes clean up simple and fast after the jobs all done.
Available online at gardensalive.com
#4 Great Indoor Hand Tool Sets
Patio Garden Tool Set $42
This patio garden set includes a canvas bag, a handy set of small garden tools manufactured using quality wood and stainless steel and enhanced by appealing design details such as ribbon hanging loops and soft grip handles. Just the thing for green thumbs looking to tend to patio pots and indoor plants. Also contains bypass secateurs, thinning scissors with soft grip handles. As an added bonus this set comes with a nice chrome mist sprayer.
Available online at greenhousemegastore.com
Radius Ergonomic Garden Tool Package $46.62 Individual price $12.95
Just because the indoor gardener does not need large digging tools does not mean that soil working tools are not needed and appreciated. This set of high quality tools comes in handy for indoor cultivating and planting needs. The Non-slip comfort grip of Radius garden tools makes gardening feel good. Blades are made of a super lightweight aluminum/magnesium alloy to maximize power and comfort and minimize hand and wrist stress. The Weeder, Trowel, and Bulb Trowel all have sharp serrated blades that easily slide through compacted earth. The blade hook pulls roots or cuts stems. A curved fulcrum pops out deep, tough weeds and the seed reservoir and planting channel guide small seeds exactly where needed. Especially recommended for anyone with arthritis or compromised hand strength.
Available online at greenhousecatalog.com
Stainless Hand Tool Set $44.95
Stainless steel blades and non-slip, ergonomic handles make these well-crafted tools a pleasure to use. Set includes trowel, transplanter, cultivator, soil scoop and floral snips in a convenient plastic caddy.
Available online at gardeners.com
#5 Soil Test Kit
Rapitest® Soil Test Kit 19.95
This kit tests for pH, Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium levels. For gardeners already familiar with soil testing, you'll appreciate the unique specially designed "color comparator" and capsule system, that make quick work of testing. For those of you new to soil testing, you'll appreciate this easy, fast and fun way to achieve better growing results from your gardening efforts. All you do is put a sample of soil into the comparator, pour in powder from capsule, add water, shake and watch the color develop. Fast, easy and it only takes a few minutes! Included in this kit are: 40 tests, 10 each for pH; Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P) and Potassium (K); 4 color comparator; complete instructions for adjusting pH; a pH preference list for over 400 plants and fertilization guidelines for Nitrogen (N), Phosphorus (P), and Potassium (K).
Available online at homeharvest.com
Delux Soil Test Kit $19.95
This kit can be used for accurate pH readings as well as the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium/potash contents of garden soil. Contains enough materials for approx. 10 tests each. Liquid testing is accurate and simple. Complete easy-to-follow instructions.
Available online at greenhousecatalog.com
Lamotte Garden Soil Test Kit 54.95
This kit is a little more extensive than most and provides accurate analysis for Ph, and the 3 basic macronutrients. Graduated plastic test tubes for measurement of the soil sample and reagent solutions. All results are compared to standards on laminated color charts. Two booklets, "A Study of Soil Science" and the "LaMotte Soil Handbook", provide in-depth background information and important data for interpretation of soil tests. The "LaMotte Soil Handbook" also features a pH preference guide for over 600 plants, trees and shrubs.
Available online at biconet.com
#6 Hand and Skin Care for Gardners
Gardners Hand Care Kit $24.95
The perfect combination of products to pamper and protect the gardener! Repair skin, relieve tired muscles and joints, and eliminate germs with soothing all-natural products! A black mesh, cinch pouch holds 6 travel-size products: all-natural sanitizer with aloe and vitamin E (2 oz), deet-free herbal insect repellent (2 oz), muscle-soothing remedy rub (1 oz), healing aloe gel skin repair (2 oz), SPF 30 sport sunblock (1 oz). Makes a great gift!
Available online at greenhousecatalog.com
Gardners Skin Care Gift Bag $29.95
Support the gardeners in your life - and all the herbs, fruits, vegetables and flowers they bring to your life - by taking care of their hands and skin! Select one of our beautiful gift bags, and fill it up by choosing two wrapped bars of our moisturizing Gardener's Hand Repair soaps as well as a Shea Butter Lip Balm flavor! We'll add the 2 ounce size of our Gardener's Salve filled with moisturizing oils, butters and medicinal herbs, and a roll-on container of our Bug-Me-No-More natural insect repellent!
Available online at soapshed.com
Allison’s Garden Hand Care Kit $14.95
Kit includes one bar of all natural vegetable-based pumice soap, one bristle brush with a hardwood handle and one 4.41 oz jar of hand crème.
Available online at alisonsgarden.com
#7 Gardening Apron
Florian Garden Apron $24.95
Even indoor gardeners will appreciate having a tool apron when getting down to serious gardening work. This durable Gardener's twill apron will keep your clothes clean and comes with a full width 8" deep pouch with 2 compartments. The gardening apron pockets are perfect for keeping tools at hand.
Available online at floriantools.com
Sacka-Da-Weeda Garden Apron $49.95
The apron makes work easier and relieves the neck fatigue that often occurs with most aprons. The three large pockets allow garden tools, gloves, phones and other needed work tools to be carried all over the garden, the main pouch saves hours of work by allowing debris to be stored in the pouch and dumped directly into wheelbarrows, eliminating the need to create and remove piles of debris. No more raking, less strain and more work in less time.
Available online at yardiac.com
Little Grean Belt $7.95
This easy to wear belt organizer has a one size fits all waistband that fits comfortably around the hips. The durable apron has three built in pockets and one cloth band that work great for carrying many garden tools, and will even fit a portable phone!
Available online at greenhousecatalog.com
#8 Gardening Work Chair
Garden Rocker 34.95
This garden work chair ROCKS! Whether gardening indoor or out it is so helpful to have a low seat around that helps you get down at the planting level. This garden seat reduces strain and pressure on knees and back and adjusts to four heights (from 11" to 14") Best of all curved base moves with the gardener in any direction, allowing one to move lower and closer to one’s work. The base also provides a convenient tool storage area. An optional soft, non-slip cushion top is available for added comfort. It features four pockets to store tools or a favorite beverage. 5lbs. 16” wide.
Available online at greenhousecatalog.com
Tractor Scoot 69.95
With this back-saving scoot, you can sit while you garden or greenhouse, and steer around garden beds or containers without getting up. The comfortable tractor-style seat is adjustable in height, and swivels a full 360 degrees to let you harvest beans, weed the flowerbed or wash the car.
Available online at gardeners.com
Comfort Garden Kneeler 19.98
By combining 2" thick cushioned kneeler pads with a contoured seat, this gardening accessory helps reduce strain on your knees and back. For added comfort the seat rocks back and forth. Additionally, it folds flat for storage and has a convenient built-in handle for easy carrying. It also holds up to 250 pounds, and it has an adjustable seat height.
Available online at firststreetonline.com
These eight items are a must for the serious indoor gardener and will vastly improve the gardening experience as well as the results.
How to Use Foliar Fertilizers for Fantastic Plants
What is Foliar Feeding?
Foliar Feeding is a technique for feeding plants by applying liquid fertiliser directly to their leaves. The most touted benefit of foliar fertilizers is their capacity to promote maximum nutrient absorption. This is based on the belief that foliar fertilizers cause an increase in sugar levels in plants which then stimulate soil activity and plant nutrient uptake.
In 1953, the U. S. Atomic Energy Department provided a grant and radioisotopes of all plant nutrients to Michigan State University. The objective was to study the foliar absorption of fertilizer nutrients and trace their movement in the plants. The study showed that foliar applied nutrients are absorbed by the leaves and they were even absorbed through the woody tissue of trees (bark). Amazingly, the study found that it was 8-10 times more effective to foliar feed a plant as far as the amount of nutrients required and the speed with which those nutrients were utilized.
As a result, spraying foliage with liquid nutrients can produce remarkable yields, just as spraying plants with a non selective herbicide like Roundup will kill the plants down to the roots. The leaves are a very effective transport mechanism for both nutrients and poison. Foliar feeding is especially useful in delivering nutrients that don't move from one part of the plant to another well. Phosphorous and iron are two examples of this. By foliar feeding, these nutrients are available to new growth much more quickly. Folier feeding may seem to go against long-standing garden practices of never allowing the leaves to get wet, particularly on some plants like Aferican vilotes or tomatoes. Because folier feeding is done with a fine mist and in the morning allowing leaves to dry, the benefits far outway any risks.
Other Benefits of Foliar Feeding
In addition to promoting maximum nutrient uptake, foliar fertilizers may have other benefits including the prevention of plant diseases and fungal attack. The reason is that, foliar fertilizers cover the leaves and stems, the plant parts that are susceptible to pests and parasites. Perhaps the biggest side benefit of foliar feeding is that it can increase the plants uptake of nutrients from the soil.
Feeding through the leaves works more quickly than adding fertilizer to soil which then has to be taken up through a plant's root system. Foliar feeding is not a substitute for root feeding, but used in conjunction with root feeding, foliar feeding can increase its effectiveness. By applying a foliar fertilizer directly to the leaf, it increases the activity in the leaf, at the same time increasing chlorophyll and thus photosynthesis. Because of this increased activity, it increases the need for water by the leaf. In turn this increases water uptake by the plants vascular system, which in turn increases the uptake of nutrients from the soil.
Foliar feeding is also finding favor unong many organic gardeners. Organic gardening involves cultivating naturally healthy soil. This is a gradual process which can make it difficult to provide some trace nutrients in sufficient quantity. By foliar feeding, trace nutrients can be suplemented directly, without disrupting soil development.
The Basics and Tips For Applying Foliar Fertilizers:
It is always advisable to dilute foliar fertilizer first before application. Too much concentration of foliar fertilizers may cause foliage burning. Make sure the solution is not too concentrated by spraying a few healthy leaves to see if there is any damage. If the leaves curl or look unhealthy in any way two days after spraying, dilute the mix by 50% and try again.
Make sure that the PH level of your foliar fertilizer spray is at a neutral range. If the spray is a concentrate that is mixed with water, use pH adjusted water or distilled water for making the solution.
Foliar fertilizer sprays achieve best effect by using a fine mist, allowing the liquid to drift over the plants.
Nutrient absorption of foliar fertilizers is enhanced when the air is humid and moist with a temperature of 80 degrees or below (Fahrenheit). This is due to the fact that the plants' main nutrient canals, the stomata, are open in low temperatures. The best time to spray is in the morning so the spray has time to dry.
After foliar feeding the first day, spray the plants with pH adjusted water daily for a few days. This provides the plant an opportunity to absorb any fertilizer residue.
For better nutrient absorption, make sure that your foliar fertilizer sprays reach the undersides of leaves, where the stomata are located.
Sea-based nutrient mixes, especially seaweed and alge concentrates are great for foliar feeding, because they have all the trace elements plants need in suspension and it may be harder to balance these elements within the soil.
Another good, relatively new product is vermi liquid from worm farms. It is full of different nutrients which are wonderful for foliar feeding.
To minimize runoff and help these sprays stick to the leaves, add a quarter of a teaspoon of liquid detergent to each gallon of spray.
For indoor plants, apply once a month. For flowers and vegetables outside, apply every two weeks, preferably in the mornings.
For best results, plants are often sprayed during their critical growth stages such as transplanting time, blooming time and just after fruit sets. By applying during flower set, foliar feeding may cause a dramatic increase in fruit production.
Modern Foliar Fertilizer Choices
Modern foliar fertilizers are concentrated solutions using very high grade elements, in which the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are combined to the desired ratio in a controlled environment. The fertilizing elements in these high tech sprays are true solutions, soluble, and thus very available to plants. To most of these commercial foliar solutions, trace elements in the form of chelates are added, along with seaweed and /or humic acid, or other additives depending on preference, to give a balanced fertilizer, supplying not only NPK, but all the trace elements as well as growth hormones and vitamins etc.
One company JTM Nutrients has developed an extensive line of foliar Fertilizers. They have specialized products for every phase of the plants life cycle from seedlings and cuttings to leaf growth and flowering and fruiting. They have a product to do the job. The following is a list of other foliar spray products that can be found with a simple internet search on their name:
Vita Grow Thunder Bloom Foliar Spray.
B'Cuzz Foliar Spray
Bill's Perfect Fertilizer
DNF Enhance
Dutch Master Penetrator
Earth Juice Essential
Spray-N-Grow
Sea Rich
GreenSense Foliar Juice
Nitrozime
General Hydroponics Chi Liquid Organic Foliar Spray
With all of these great products available, there is no excuse for not giving foliar feeding a try. It is fast, easy, relatively inexpensive and very effective.
Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is an editor for The Ultimate Sunflower Site http://www.SunflowerOcity.com, a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net/ and an owner of Greenhouse and Garden Supply http://greenhouseandgardensupply.com/.
You can reach Chris at CKline72@Cox.net
Foliar Feeding is a technique for feeding plants by applying liquid fertiliser directly to their leaves. The most touted benefit of foliar fertilizers is their capacity to promote maximum nutrient absorption. This is based on the belief that foliar fertilizers cause an increase in sugar levels in plants which then stimulate soil activity and plant nutrient uptake.
In 1953, the U. S. Atomic Energy Department provided a grant and radioisotopes of all plant nutrients to Michigan State University. The objective was to study the foliar absorption of fertilizer nutrients and trace their movement in the plants. The study showed that foliar applied nutrients are absorbed by the leaves and they were even absorbed through the woody tissue of trees (bark). Amazingly, the study found that it was 8-10 times more effective to foliar feed a plant as far as the amount of nutrients required and the speed with which those nutrients were utilized.
As a result, spraying foliage with liquid nutrients can produce remarkable yields, just as spraying plants with a non selective herbicide like Roundup will kill the plants down to the roots. The leaves are a very effective transport mechanism for both nutrients and poison. Foliar feeding is especially useful in delivering nutrients that don't move from one part of the plant to another well. Phosphorous and iron are two examples of this. By foliar feeding, these nutrients are available to new growth much more quickly. Folier feeding may seem to go against long-standing garden practices of never allowing the leaves to get wet, particularly on some plants like Aferican vilotes or tomatoes. Because folier feeding is done with a fine mist and in the morning allowing leaves to dry, the benefits far outway any risks.
Other Benefits of Foliar Feeding
In addition to promoting maximum nutrient uptake, foliar fertilizers may have other benefits including the prevention of plant diseases and fungal attack. The reason is that, foliar fertilizers cover the leaves and stems, the plant parts that are susceptible to pests and parasites. Perhaps the biggest side benefit of foliar feeding is that it can increase the plants uptake of nutrients from the soil.
Feeding through the leaves works more quickly than adding fertilizer to soil which then has to be taken up through a plant's root system. Foliar feeding is not a substitute for root feeding, but used in conjunction with root feeding, foliar feeding can increase its effectiveness. By applying a foliar fertilizer directly to the leaf, it increases the activity in the leaf, at the same time increasing chlorophyll and thus photosynthesis. Because of this increased activity, it increases the need for water by the leaf. In turn this increases water uptake by the plants vascular system, which in turn increases the uptake of nutrients from the soil.
Foliar feeding is also finding favor unong many organic gardeners. Organic gardening involves cultivating naturally healthy soil. This is a gradual process which can make it difficult to provide some trace nutrients in sufficient quantity. By foliar feeding, trace nutrients can be suplemented directly, without disrupting soil development.
The Basics and Tips For Applying Foliar Fertilizers:
It is always advisable to dilute foliar fertilizer first before application. Too much concentration of foliar fertilizers may cause foliage burning. Make sure the solution is not too concentrated by spraying a few healthy leaves to see if there is any damage. If the leaves curl or look unhealthy in any way two days after spraying, dilute the mix by 50% and try again.
Make sure that the PH level of your foliar fertilizer spray is at a neutral range. If the spray is a concentrate that is mixed with water, use pH adjusted water or distilled water for making the solution.
Foliar fertilizer sprays achieve best effect by using a fine mist, allowing the liquid to drift over the plants.
Nutrient absorption of foliar fertilizers is enhanced when the air is humid and moist with a temperature of 80 degrees or below (Fahrenheit). This is due to the fact that the plants' main nutrient canals, the stomata, are open in low temperatures. The best time to spray is in the morning so the spray has time to dry.
After foliar feeding the first day, spray the plants with pH adjusted water daily for a few days. This provides the plant an opportunity to absorb any fertilizer residue.
For better nutrient absorption, make sure that your foliar fertilizer sprays reach the undersides of leaves, where the stomata are located.
Sea-based nutrient mixes, especially seaweed and alge concentrates are great for foliar feeding, because they have all the trace elements plants need in suspension and it may be harder to balance these elements within the soil.
Another good, relatively new product is vermi liquid from worm farms. It is full of different nutrients which are wonderful for foliar feeding.
To minimize runoff and help these sprays stick to the leaves, add a quarter of a teaspoon of liquid detergent to each gallon of spray.
For indoor plants, apply once a month. For flowers and vegetables outside, apply every two weeks, preferably in the mornings.
For best results, plants are often sprayed during their critical growth stages such as transplanting time, blooming time and just after fruit sets. By applying during flower set, foliar feeding may cause a dramatic increase in fruit production.
Modern Foliar Fertilizer Choices
Modern foliar fertilizers are concentrated solutions using very high grade elements, in which the nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium are combined to the desired ratio in a controlled environment. The fertilizing elements in these high tech sprays are true solutions, soluble, and thus very available to plants. To most of these commercial foliar solutions, trace elements in the form of chelates are added, along with seaweed and /or humic acid, or other additives depending on preference, to give a balanced fertilizer, supplying not only NPK, but all the trace elements as well as growth hormones and vitamins etc.
One company JTM Nutrients has developed an extensive line of foliar Fertilizers. They have specialized products for every phase of the plants life cycle from seedlings and cuttings to leaf growth and flowering and fruiting. They have a product to do the job. The following is a list of other foliar spray products that can be found with a simple internet search on their name:
Vita Grow Thunder Bloom Foliar Spray.
B'Cuzz Foliar Spray
Bill's Perfect Fertilizer
DNF Enhance
Dutch Master Penetrator
Earth Juice Essential
Spray-N-Grow
Sea Rich
GreenSense Foliar Juice
Nitrozime
General Hydroponics Chi Liquid Organic Foliar Spray
With all of these great products available, there is no excuse for not giving foliar feeding a try. It is fast, easy, relatively inexpensive and very effective.
Dr. Christopher J. Kline is a master gardener and writer living in Paradise Valley Arizona. He is an editor for The Ultimate Sunflower Site http://www.SunflowerOcity.com, a columnist for Garden and Greenhouse Magazine http://www.gardenandgreenhouse.net/ and an owner of Greenhouse and Garden Supply http://greenhouseandgardensupply.com/.
You can reach Chris at CKline72@Cox.net
How to Have Great Container Gardens
Container gardening is great for indoors, greenhouses, patios and other small spaces and even has some advantages over in ground gardening. With a little planning, anyone can have great container gardens that make the most of small (or large) gardening spaces.
Choose Planters
Choosing appropriate planting containers is one of the most important factors in container gardening success. Very small containers just do not work well for most vegetables or trees and are not advised. Nearly all vegetables and herbs will do well in a pot that is five gallons or larger (12’’ diameter and 12’’ depth). Larger containers also allow for some unique combination planting that produces better results, helps with natural pest control and looks great on the patio. The exception to the need for relatively large containers is with plants having shallow roots, like most salad greens. They can do quite well in shallow pots and even grow well in shallow wok shaped pots as do many annual flowers. Adequate drainage holes are a must for all containers. Containers can be ceramic, wood, plastic or even coco bark baskets. Most pots can be painted to change the look, but make sure to use a quality outdoor lacquer paint or stain. If using terracotta pots or wood it is advisable to seal the inside with Dry Lock, which can be found at most hardware stores. Otherwise these pots will deteriorate within a couple of seasons. Saucers are also important so pots can drain without making a mess.
Soil for Success
Once good containers are in hand, the growing media that they are filled with is the most important factor to container gardening success. Most plants prefer well drained soil, and this is particularly important with container gardening. Quality potting soil, is in fact not really soil at all. It is composed of various combinations of organic and inorganic components like vermiculite/paralite, peat moss, sand, bark and so forth. Many of these components are there, not for their nutrient adding qualities, but for their water and air retention capabilities. It is very important not to use top soil or other clay based soils for potting because they will compact and result in big problems. The best potting medium to buy is premium potting soil and it should be lightweight, loose, and hold moisture well. Generally, with potting soil, you get what you pay for.
When filling pots with soil, first place a piece of window screen in the bottom of each pot and then an inch or so of gravel, next find a good time release fertilizer and mix it with the soil according to the package directions. If it is desirable to keep the containers organic, crab meal can be used as time release fertilizer to mix with the soil. Good sources for this are Dirt Works.net and 4Hydroponics.com. Regular feedings will still be needed, but time realease fertilizer provides added insurance. Water storing crystals work well in containers and may also be added to the soil. Several popular brands are, Soil Moist.com and Agrosoke.net.
Plant a Container Garden
Timing is very important to success in gardening. Plant hardiness zones can be found online at many locations including http://www.demesne.info/Garden-Help/US-Plant-Hardiness/. Knowing the zone number for a particular region helps, but because of micro-climates within each zone, it is advisable to locate more specific information from a local gardening center, or perhaps a gardening section of the local newspaper. Planting calendars are also often available online by searching on the county name. One advantage of container gardening is that you can start seeds indoors, or in a greenhouse, about eight weeks before it is expected to be warm enough for them grow outside, and then just move the containers outside when the time is right. It is also nice to plant an extra pot or two to share with friends and family.
There are many varieties of vegetables that have been developed especially for container gardening. Park Seeds has a great selection of plants and seeds specifically developed for containers including a great tomato variety called the Tomato Container Choice Hybrid. Another online resource specializing entirely in seeds for container gardening can be found at ContainerSeeds.com. Look for descriptive words like bush, compact or dwarf when buying vegetable seeds or transplants. It is also advisable to do a little reading on companion planting as this gardening technique works exceptionally well in containers. You can find lots of information on companion planting with an online search on “companion planting”. Two great books; Carrots Love Tomatoes: Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful Gardening by Louise Riotte and The Bountiful Container by Rose Marie Nicholas McGee and Maggie Stuckey are excellent references on the topic.
Feeding Container Gardens
Fertilizer replenishes the nutrients that plants use and that are washed away. One advantage of container gardening is that less water is needed so there is less leaching of nutrients from the soil, and hence the need for fertilizer is reduced, but not eliminated. For best results, look for complete fertilizers that are recommended especially for container gardening, and fertilize according to the package directions. A Good source for these is homeharvest.com. Also consider foliar feeding. Used along with soil based fertilizers, foliar feeding gives a one-two punch that results in great gardens. Check out jtmhydronutrients.com.
Tips for Container Gardening Success
Heat buildup in the summer can be a problem with container gardening. Larger pots help, as does arranging pots together so that some of the pot surfaces are shaded by other plants and pots. Another good technique is to place a plastic pot with plants, inside a decorative pot that is slightly larger. Then place a bit of straw or mulch in the space between the two pots for insulation.
Another great technique for medium sized pots that will help keep plants moist and cool is to place a disposable baby diaper in the pot and fill it with dirt for planting. The diaper will absorb moisture which will keep the plants roots moist and cool, releasing water as it dries between watering.
Add water saving crystals to your soil mix to keep soil moist and reduce watering needs.
After planting seeds and watering, cover the pot with plastic wrap to make a “mini greenhouse” to retain moisture and warmth.
A great space saving technique with larger pots is to plant larger plants like peppers and tomatoes that need deep root space and then line the top of the pot with salad greens and/or annual flowers that do not require the deep root space. The surface plants not only look great, but they shelter the soil and help to retain moisture.
Add herbs, small fruits like strawberries, flowers and pest retarding flowers like nasturtiums and French marigolds to your vegetable planters.
A layer of sand will help keep gnats and other pests from laying eggs in house plant soil. A layer of peat moss on top of the soil will help retain moisture for outdoor containers.
Putting large planters on casters makes it easy to move plants from sunny to shady areas or vise versa when needed. These can be purchased at gardeners.com.
Consider installing an inexpensive simple drip watering system to help with the watering of container plants.
Choose Planters
Choosing appropriate planting containers is one of the most important factors in container gardening success. Very small containers just do not work well for most vegetables or trees and are not advised. Nearly all vegetables and herbs will do well in a pot that is five gallons or larger (12’’ diameter and 12’’ depth). Larger containers also allow for some unique combination planting that produces better results, helps with natural pest control and looks great on the patio. The exception to the need for relatively large containers is with plants having shallow roots, like most salad greens. They can do quite well in shallow pots and even grow well in shallow wok shaped pots as do many annual flowers. Adequate drainage holes are a must for all containers. Containers can be ceramic, wood, plastic or even coco bark baskets. Most pots can be painted to change the look, but make sure to use a quality outdoor lacquer paint or stain. If using terracotta pots or wood it is advisable to seal the inside with Dry Lock, which can be found at most hardware stores. Otherwise these pots will deteriorate within a couple of seasons. Saucers are also important so pots can drain without making a mess.
Soil for Success
Once good containers are in hand, the growing media that they are filled with is the most important factor to container gardening success. Most plants prefer well drained soil, and this is particularly important with container gardening. Quality potting soil, is in fact not really soil at all. It is composed of various combinations of organic and inorganic components like vermiculite/paralite, peat moss, sand, bark and so forth. Many of these components are there, not for their nutrient adding qualities, but for their water and air retention capabilities. It is very important not to use top soil or other clay based soils for potting because they will compact and result in big problems. The best potting medium to buy is premium potting soil and it should be lightweight, loose, and hold moisture well. Generally, with potting soil, you get what you pay for.
When filling pots with soil, first place a piece of window screen in the bottom of each pot and then an inch or so of gravel, next find a good time release fertilizer and mix it with the soil according to the package directions. If it is desirable to keep the containers organic, crab meal can be used as time release fertilizer to mix with the soil. Good sources for this are Dirt Works.net and 4Hydroponics.com. Regular feedings will still be needed, but time realease fertilizer provides added insurance. Water storing crystals work well in containers and may also be added to the soil. Several popular brands are, Soil Moist.com and Agrosoke.net.
Plant a Container Garden
Timing is very important to success in gardening. Plant hardiness zones can be found online at many locations including http://www.demesne.info/Garden-Help/US-Plant-Hardiness/. Knowing the zone number for a particular region helps, but because of micro-climates within each zone, it is advisable to locate more specific information from a local gardening center, or perhaps a gardening section of the local newspaper. Planting calendars are also often available online by searching on the county name. One advantage of container gardening is that you can start seeds indoors, or in a greenhouse, about eight weeks before it is expected to be warm enough for them grow outside, and then just move the containers outside when the time is right. It is also nice to plant an extra pot or two to share with friends and family.
There are many varieties of vegetables that have been developed especially for container gardening. Park Seeds has a great selection of plants and seeds specifically developed for containers including a great tomato variety called the Tomato Container Choice Hybrid. Another online resource specializing entirely in seeds for container gardening can be found at ContainerSeeds.com. Look for descriptive words like bush, compact or dwarf when buying vegetable seeds or transplants. It is also advisable to do a little reading on companion planting as this gardening technique works exceptionally well in containers. You can find lots of information on companion planting with an online search on “companion planting”. Two great books; Carrots Love Tomatoes: Secrets of Companion Planting for Successful Gardening by Louise Riotte and The Bountiful Container by Rose Marie Nicholas McGee and Maggie Stuckey are excellent references on the topic.
Feeding Container Gardens
Fertilizer replenishes the nutrients that plants use and that are washed away. One advantage of container gardening is that less water is needed so there is less leaching of nutrients from the soil, and hence the need for fertilizer is reduced, but not eliminated. For best results, look for complete fertilizers that are recommended especially for container gardening, and fertilize according to the package directions. A Good source for these is homeharvest.com. Also consider foliar feeding. Used along with soil based fertilizers, foliar feeding gives a one-two punch that results in great gardens. Check out jtmhydronutrients.com.
Tips for Container Gardening Success
Heat buildup in the summer can be a problem with container gardening. Larger pots help, as does arranging pots together so that some of the pot surfaces are shaded by other plants and pots. Another good technique is to place a plastic pot with plants, inside a decorative pot that is slightly larger. Then place a bit of straw or mulch in the space between the two pots for insulation.
Another great technique for medium sized pots that will help keep plants moist and cool is to place a disposable baby diaper in the pot and fill it with dirt for planting. The diaper will absorb moisture which will keep the plants roots moist and cool, releasing water as it dries between watering.
Add water saving crystals to your soil mix to keep soil moist and reduce watering needs.
After planting seeds and watering, cover the pot with plastic wrap to make a “mini greenhouse” to retain moisture and warmth.
A great space saving technique with larger pots is to plant larger plants like peppers and tomatoes that need deep root space and then line the top of the pot with salad greens and/or annual flowers that do not require the deep root space. The surface plants not only look great, but they shelter the soil and help to retain moisture.
Add herbs, small fruits like strawberries, flowers and pest retarding flowers like nasturtiums and French marigolds to your vegetable planters.
A layer of sand will help keep gnats and other pests from laying eggs in house plant soil. A layer of peat moss on top of the soil will help retain moisture for outdoor containers.
Putting large planters on casters makes it easy to move plants from sunny to shady areas or vise versa when needed. These can be purchased at gardeners.com.
Consider installing an inexpensive simple drip watering system to help with the watering of container plants.
Coffee Grounds! The Free Garden Secret
Many people don’t know this, but all those coffee grounds from Starbucks are provided to gardeners free for the asking. Most Starbucks stores have a bucket where they place the garden grounds somewhere in the store. If not or if the bucket is empty they are generally more than happy to fill up some bags for anyone who asks. Starbucks discusses their garden grounds program at http://www.starbucks.com/aboutus/compost.asp and gives information and tips on using the grounds in the garden.
Starbucks reports that most of the acidity is removed in the brewing process, leaving used grounds with an average PH of 6.9 and a carbon-nitrogen ration of 20-1. Starbucks commissioned a study in 1995 conducted by the University of Washington College of Forest Resources to better understand the make up of organic matter in coffee grounds and found the following:
Primary Nutrients
Secondary Nutrients
Nitrogen 1.45%
Phosphorus ND ug/g
Potassium 1204 ug/g Calcium 389 ug/g
Magnesium 448 ug/g
Sulfur high ug/g
Notes:
ND = indicates sample is below detection limit
ug/g = microgram / gram
Coffee Grounds Are One Of The Best Kept Garden Secrets And Offer The Following Benefits:
• They smell great!
• They are a source of nitrogen that is widely available year round in all parts of the country.
• They are easily stored for days in a closed plastic bag. But are best used within two weeks.
• Coffee-ground mulch can help reduce the ravages of slugs and snails if placed around the perimeter of the garden.
• They are a great food for worm farming. Worms love coffee grounds and turn them into great castings for the garden. Make sure to feed them with other items and place them in a corner of the bin rather than spreading them. The worms will find them in the corner and process them at their own pace.
• Particularly where the soil is very alkaline and/or very dense clay coffee grounds do wonders as a soil amendment because they can lower the soil pH over time.
• They are available in large quantities for free from Starbucks!
Use Coffee Grounds In The Following Garden Applications:
• For a great source of slow-release nitrogen, dig coffee grounds into the soil around plants and water in well. They are particularly great for mulching acid loving plants like rhododendrons and azalea. A rate of 10 pounds (dry weight) per 1000 square feet would be conservative and not have a drastic impact on soil pH.
• Coffee grounds are a great accelerator for compost to increase nitrogen balance. Consider coffee grounds "green" material similar to grass clipping. One of the great things about composting coffee grounds is that the microbes that do the composting will turn the coffee from acidic to a neutral pH. So coffee grounds do not make compost acidic. The Environmental Protection Agency suggests adding no more than 25 percent volume coffee grounds. Adding this 25% to fall leaves or other brown matter will make great compost in a minimum of time. An added benefit is that grounds absorb and hold moisture which is critical to the compost pile.
• Make Coffee tea from grounds for a gentle, fast-acting liquid fertilizer. Use about a half-pound of wet grounds in a five-gallon bucket of water. Place the grounds in an old pair of panty hose or sock and let the bucket sit covered for about two weeks before using. This tea can be used when watering or better yet, as a foliar spray.
• Some people mix grounds into soil for houseplants, but it may be better to avoid using coffee grounds directly with potted houseplants, not only because of the potential for fungal growth but also potential buildup of soluble salts. A better approach is to compost the grounds first with the addition of brown matter for a few weeks and then use the compost as a dressing or soil additive for house plants.
• Encircle the base of the plant with a coffee and eggshell barrier to repel pests.
With the number of Starbucks stores increasing all the time it is not hard to find one or more on the way to work and stop in each day, not only for a great cup of coffee, but for a bunch of free grounds that will do miracles in the garden.
John Berends is a free-lance writer and an owner of Greenhouse and Garden Supply. John can be contacted at john.berends@greenhouseandgardensupply.com and you can visit his website at http://greenhouseandgardensupply.com.
Starbucks reports that most of the acidity is removed in the brewing process, leaving used grounds with an average PH of 6.9 and a carbon-nitrogen ration of 20-1. Starbucks commissioned a study in 1995 conducted by the University of Washington College of Forest Resources to better understand the make up of organic matter in coffee grounds and found the following:
Primary Nutrients
Secondary Nutrients
Nitrogen 1.45%
Phosphorus ND ug/g
Potassium 1204 ug/g Calcium 389 ug/g
Magnesium 448 ug/g
Sulfur high ug/g
Notes:
ND = indicates sample is below detection limit
ug/g = microgram / gram
Coffee Grounds Are One Of The Best Kept Garden Secrets And Offer The Following Benefits:
• They smell great!
• They are a source of nitrogen that is widely available year round in all parts of the country.
• They are easily stored for days in a closed plastic bag. But are best used within two weeks.
• Coffee-ground mulch can help reduce the ravages of slugs and snails if placed around the perimeter of the garden.
• They are a great food for worm farming. Worms love coffee grounds and turn them into great castings for the garden. Make sure to feed them with other items and place them in a corner of the bin rather than spreading them. The worms will find them in the corner and process them at their own pace.
• Particularly where the soil is very alkaline and/or very dense clay coffee grounds do wonders as a soil amendment because they can lower the soil pH over time.
• They are available in large quantities for free from Starbucks!
Use Coffee Grounds In The Following Garden Applications:
• For a great source of slow-release nitrogen, dig coffee grounds into the soil around plants and water in well. They are particularly great for mulching acid loving plants like rhododendrons and azalea. A rate of 10 pounds (dry weight) per 1000 square feet would be conservative and not have a drastic impact on soil pH.
• Coffee grounds are a great accelerator for compost to increase nitrogen balance. Consider coffee grounds "green" material similar to grass clipping. One of the great things about composting coffee grounds is that the microbes that do the composting will turn the coffee from acidic to a neutral pH. So coffee grounds do not make compost acidic. The Environmental Protection Agency suggests adding no more than 25 percent volume coffee grounds. Adding this 25% to fall leaves or other brown matter will make great compost in a minimum of time. An added benefit is that grounds absorb and hold moisture which is critical to the compost pile.
• Make Coffee tea from grounds for a gentle, fast-acting liquid fertilizer. Use about a half-pound of wet grounds in a five-gallon bucket of water. Place the grounds in an old pair of panty hose or sock and let the bucket sit covered for about two weeks before using. This tea can be used when watering or better yet, as a foliar spray.
• Some people mix grounds into soil for houseplants, but it may be better to avoid using coffee grounds directly with potted houseplants, not only because of the potential for fungal growth but also potential buildup of soluble salts. A better approach is to compost the grounds first with the addition of brown matter for a few weeks and then use the compost as a dressing or soil additive for house plants.
• Encircle the base of the plant with a coffee and eggshell barrier to repel pests.
With the number of Starbucks stores increasing all the time it is not hard to find one or more on the way to work and stop in each day, not only for a great cup of coffee, but for a bunch of free grounds that will do miracles in the garden.
John Berends is a free-lance writer and an owner of Greenhouse and Garden Supply. John can be contacted at john.berends@greenhouseandgardensupply.com and you can visit his website at http://greenhouseandgardensupply.com.
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